Iguazu Falls straddles the countries of Argentina and Brazil and can be safely viewed from either country. The Iguazu River is split between the Upper and Lower rivers, with one plummeting into the other before flowing into the Parana River, 25 km downstream. These combined rivers create an 820-mile-long natural border between the two countries. Declared a National Park in 1934, this greenspace now has a combined total of 240,000 hectares sandwiched between Argentina and Brazil.
Taller and wider than Canada’s own impressive Niagara Falls and considered to be one of the largest waterfalls in the world, Iguazu Falls is 2.7 km wide and ranges in height from 60-82 metres. The combined flow accumulating from more than 275 different cascades spread across two countries, drops an astounding 450,000 cubic feet of water per second into the river below.
IGUAZU FALLS ARGENTINA:
A short two-hour flight from Buenos Aires takes you into the town of Puerto Iguazu, considered the gateway to Iguazu Falls on the Argentinian side of the border. From here you will find the falls a mere 16 miles from town with several buses and taxis available to transport you there.
With eight kms stretched over six circuits of trails on the Argentinian side of Iguazu Falls, it takes pretty much a full day to explore all of it, so be sure to allow a minimum of six hours to discover the area. Sunscreen, a hat and mosquito repellent are a must.
Starting out on the lower circuit trail, you will take an ecological train to a look-out platform near the formidable “Devils Throat,” where the sound of thunderous cascading water and the feel of misty vapour reaches you long before you see it. The first glimpse of chocolatey-orange-coloured water tells you this is a waterfall like no other. This perspective offers up-close views of the waterfalls surrounded by exotic leafy plants, birds and small monkeys that call this corner of rainforest home.
Trekking upward to the connecting middle circuit trail, you will find a shaded rest stop with picnic tables under big leafy trees. Here you will find food, water and other refreshments available for sale, as well as a gift shop and washrooms for your convenience. With high temperatures and equally high humidity, it’s very important to stay hydrated.
Coatis, a small four-legged animal with a long tail and long nose, are constantly roaming nearby. A cousin to the raccoon, they are not domesticated; they are wild animals so for safety reasons, do not approach them. “Do Not Feed the Animals” signs are widely posted yet many people ignore the warnings. Coatis are clever little bandits and if they spot your open backpack or food sitting out, they will attempt to steal it.
Continuing ahead on well-maintained pathways and bridges throughout this circuit, you will encounter countless numbers of viewpoints which all have striking views of the falls. Birds, butterflies and small monkeys keep you entertained along the trail.
The upper circuit trail (with no shade) leads you to viewpoints and platforms that overlook the falls from dizzying heights at the top. Brilliant rainbows stretch across the many falls and can be seen from almost every vantage point. At this height, you can see where the upper Iguazu River rushes over a sheer 262-foot drop, into the lower Iguazu River.
After six-and-a-half hours and more than 18,000 footsteps, I was ready to point my tired feet towards the hotel for a much-needed foot soak and an ice-cold beverage. Exploration begins tomorrow on the Brazilian side of the falls, to determine which country has the best views.
IGUAZU FALLS BRAZIL:
A 45-to-60-minute ride from Puerto Iguazu will take you to the Brazilian side of the falls. Transportation can easily be arranged through your hotel. Your passport will be required to cross the border.
One of the world’s “Seven Natural Wonders,” Iguazu Falls can be seen from the Brazilian side from very strategically placed walkways and trails with visibly stunning natural panoramic views of the waterfalls. At last count, this amazing spectacle is seen by 1.6 million visitors annually and was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984.
With nine kms of trails to follow, it would be another full day to take in all this amazing park has to offer. It has been reported that it can often be cooler and wetter on the Brazilian side, and I found this information to be accurate.
A short walk from the main entrance of the lower circuit brings you to a long metal walkway that extends out over the raging torrent of water. As you approach, you immediately feel the powerful force of wind and mist generated by these massive waterfalls. To keep yourself dry, donning a raincoat is a must.
With raingear flapping furiously all around me, and violent winds howling and blowing at me from every direction, it was impossible to keep myself and my camera dry. However, I was determined to endure the challenging elements in order to witness the wild and thunderous waterfall in all its ferocity. Mesmerized and captivated by the sight of these intimidating falls, all the while trying to comprehend the sheer power that lies within, was mind-boggling.
Retracing my footsteps back to the start of the metal walkway, I continued upward on the trail to the midsection of the circuit. As you make your way along the footpath, many smaller but still noteworthy falls can be seen.
Alarmingly, spine-chilling screams could suddenly be heard from the water far below. Fearing the worst, people rushed to the safety railing and peered over to see what had happened. Much to everyone’s relief, it was not a falling body, but rather thrill-seekers in a zodiac on the river passing daringly close to one of the falls. The park offers more than one way to see the waterfalls, however, I am well beyond the age of doing things the “Evil Knievel” way. I chose to keep my feet firmly planted on the trails.
Pushing forward, you will eventually reach the third level where an elevator will take you to the final and uppermost observatory platform. Here, you will find refreshments and souvenirs available for purchase.
The park, at times, will close this viewing platform due to excessive amounts of water spilling onto the platform, caused by its very close proximity to the edge of the falls. Today, however, was not one of those days. I was gifted with the magnificent sight, sound and feel of one of Mother Nature’s exhibits of raw and powerful forces at work.
In conclusion, it appears that the most recognizable and popular section of falls to view from either side, without doubt, would be that of “Garganta del Diablo” (The Devil’s Throat). Half of the river’s flow falls into this U-shaped cataract, 82 m wide and 72 m deep. These imposing falls have been the backdrop of many films.
Navigating these remarkable waterfalls is impressive from either country. Even though 80 per cent of the falls are on the Argentinian side, Brazil has plenty of memorable views on offer and should not be missed.
Linda A. Blair
Freelance Travel Writer & Photographer
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