Egypt’s storied past inspires a pre-COVID visit. Our investigation of the Old Kingdom’s 10 dynasties begins at iconic pyramids still dominating the Giza Plateau south of Cairo.
“Over 4,580 years ago, Egyptians developed these massive pyramids to launch pharaohs’ spirits into heaven,” smiles Ahmed, our Egyptologist guide. “The structures have defied the erosion of time! How were they built? Did visionaries or Ptah, patron god of craftsmen inspire these great marvels?” Research helps us understand the ingenious construction.
Using hard-stone hammers, copper pickaxes and chisels, skilled masons cut huge limestone and granite blocks. On canals hand-dug from the Nile, oared barges carried them to Giza. There, teams of workers dragged more than 2,300,000 heavy blocks up scaffolds and ramps. Measuring distances with knotted ropes, blocks were placed unerringly. With plumb bobs, water levels and squares, they aligned each perfectly. The triangular faces demonstrate their precision. It’s estimated that over 20,000 workers took 20 years to construct Khufu’s Great Pyramid. Slabs of limestone remain on sections of his magnificent tomb; its gold capstone vanished long ago. Below stretches the iconic sphinx. Historians think this fourth dynasty pharaoh ordered his image sculpted onto the feline body to promote his status.
Smallest of Giza’s three major pyramids, Menkaure’s pyramid towers above adjacent queens’ tombs. Beyond his mortuary temple, a pathway leads to its entrance. Inside, a narrow tunnel winds through several rooms to his ransacked chamber. Because burial treasures were routinely looted, royal burials were later located in the secluded Valley of the Kings.
Our next stop is the site of early Memphis. Pharaoh Narmer unified Egypt in 2925 BC and made this city the Old Kingdom’s capital. Although reminders of its 10 dynasties were discovered, many artifacts reveal the continued prominence of Memphis during later dynasties. Found beside the nearby temple of Ptah, a 10-metre, legless figure of Ramses the Great now lies in The Open-air Museum. The monumental statue is but one of many tributes to Ramses II.
Outside, Queen Hatshepsut appears as the face of another sphinx. The calcite effigy glorifies this rare female pharaoh and renowned builder. Symbolizing motherhood and music, a nearby bust of deity Hathor features unusual cow-like ears.
Farther south, Saqqara encompasses a vast third dynasty burial ground. Ahmed points out King Djoser’s ‘step-pyramid’ made in 2630 BC; the first pyramid ever constructed. Supposedly, its layers of rounded platforms were intended to provide a giant stairway to join sun god Ra. Smaller pyramids stand near the newly excavated Temple of Anubis and animal cemetery. “Jackal-headed god Anubis shepherded the dead into the spirit world,” Ahmed explains. “Here, the deity tended eight million interred animals. Egyptians commonly had cats and dogs; elite pets might include baboons, monkeys, fish, gazelles, birds, lions, mongoose, crocodiles, scarab beetles, and even hefty hippos.”
Back in downtown Cairo, we visit the old Egyptian Museum. Exhibits span 3100 BC to 332 AD. Statues of Giza’s pyramid builders, pharaohs Khufu, Khafre, and Menkaure, line wide hallways. We also admire a colossal sculpture created to celebrate the prosperous reign of Amenhotep III. He sits with wife, Tiye, and their three daughters. Passing through a lower gallery of mummified well-to-do citizens and royalty, we continue upstairs.
The Narmer Palette is exhibited in a showcase. Pharaoh Narmer’s image is etched on both sides of a piece of flat gray-green siltstone. On one side, he wears Lower Egypt’s Red Crown in a victory procession and on the other, the White Crown of Upper Egypt. This extraordinary facial makeup palette cleverly illustrates his unification of Upper and Lower Egypt.
In other rooms, illustrated papyrus scrolls, numerous critter-headed gods, stone animal carvings and marvelous death masks of Egyptian royalty delight and amuse. Gesturing toward alabaster jar collections, Ahmed explains, “Stomachs, intestines, lungs, and livers were preserved in four canopic jars. Each lid portrays the owner’s face to help the spirits locate vital parts in the afterlife. There are no jars for hearts. Believed to be receptacles of souls, hearts remained in mummies.”
A special gallery encloses Tutankhamen’s awe-inspiring treasures: his gilded throne, chariot, gem-embedded rings, amulets and bracelets, bejeweled sandals, and bronze knives. The boy king’s face appears on golden death masks and canopic jars. All evoke luxurious lifestyles and death rituals of pharaohs.
A small painted carving in another room portrays one high-ranking court official and tender family relationships. The wealthy dwarf, named Seneb, sits cross-legged beside his wife, who embraces him affectionately; their two impish children stand below.
Inside the centuries-old Alabaster Mosque atop Citadel of Salah al-Din, Ahmed describes how Muslim Egyptians follow the Quran. “Sharia laws strictly define roles. Bedouin leaders must be followed. Disobeying during desert storms is deadly. In comparison, urban Muslims face daily problems requiring independent, modern outlooks.” Exiting the alabaster domed mosque, we cross its enormous courtyard to the southern edge and again view Giza’s distant pyramids.
Our coach takes us past large synagogues, a huge Coptic Cathedral, and other mosques. Along the way, we learn about modern Egypt’s turbulent times. “Hosni Mubarak ruled Egypt for almost 30 years. Considered increasingly corrupt, he was forced to resign in 2011,” Ahmed notes. “After electing Muslim Brotherhood candidates, President Morsi’s legislators enacted harsh Sharia laws attacking women’s rights, denying free expression, and even suspending our constitution.”
“Of course, the population questioned these acts. Millions of Coptic Christians, Jews and Muslims signed petitions and held rallies. The army refused to quell their mass demonstrations. And in 2013, the Muslim Brotherhood was expelled. Then, turning to terrorism to regain power, the Brotherhood bombed a police station and Cairo’s Botroseya Church. You’ll now see armed police posted throughout Egypt to prevent other tragedies.”
At another stop, we wander Khan El-Khalili, a wondrous 14th century souk. Narrow passageways wind past stalls overflowing with shiny silver, copper, and brassware. Gold trinkets and jewellery fashioned by market goldsmiths cover tables. Stylish leather goods, colourful textiles, and dresses adorn shop walls. At every turn, merchants invite us to check out their wares. Many vendors sell as well as smoke hookah water pipes throughout this intriguing bazaar.
Wooden barrels of dried fruits and nuts attract us into a small shop. We buy boxes of fresh dates embedded with almonds, a tasty souvenir. Our shopping ends at an outdoor café; the owner excitedly welcomes our group of 20. We settle around long wooden tables at the edge of a shaded square. Across the street towers Al-azhar’s dome and minarets. While sipping our robust Turkish coffees, today’s guide tells us the mosque commissioned in 970 AD had become an important Islamic learning centre.
Returning to our hotel, we sight from coach windows Cairo’s sprawling street market. Below the busy freeway, hordes of shoppers converge on countless little stalls shaded by multi-coloured umbrellas and endless racks of clothing dancing in the breeze.
Old Cairo introduces Egypt’s ancient past, evolving culture, and pertinent politics. Flying south to Luxor, a Nile River cruise carries us into Egypt’s Middle and New Kingdoms. The next 20 dynasties of pharaohs ruled from this area. Mooring near remarkable attractions, daily shuttles whisk us to notable temples and into the Valley of Kings. Accompanying us, Ahmed presents further insights into Egypt’s past. Our discoveries will be shared in the March issue.
IF YOU GO:
- www.uniworld.com Check out Nile cruise itineraries.
- egymonuments.gov.eg/en/museums/egyptian-museum Established in 1902 on Tahrir Square, the old museum will be restored to its original glory and re-open as a cultural center.
- www.grandegyptianmuseum.org Promising to be world’s largest archeological museum, The Grand Egyptian Museum opening in November 2022 will display the old museum’s antiquities and more.
- www.youtube.com/watch?v=bkthRB0L7IM Shows the ceremonial parade of ancient kings to their new site overlooking Giza.
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