Are they merely mythological Scandinavian characters or are they unique beings living among the Norwegian population? I was determined to get on the trail of the illusive yet ever-present trolls to find out.
Since I was never formally introduced to a troll, I inquired about these atypical individuals and their esoteric subculture. Apparently, they are usually good-natured and naïve. They are also generous and considered good luck if befriended. However, if you irk them, they can wreak havoc. Trolls hide in forests and mountain-sides and only emerge from hiding after sunset. Direct exposure to sunlight could cause these crepuscular creatures to crack or turn into stone. Today, rock formations with troll-like features are irrefutable evidence of this. Distinctive features include very long, crooked noses, only four digits on each limb and often a long, bushy tail, which they have difficulty concealing.
It is believed that they have supernatural powers with the ability to transform themselves into attractive young maidens who lure farmers’ and hunters’ sons to the mountains. Armed with this knowledge, I initiated my pursuit in Norway at Europe’s most northerly location, North Cape (Nord Kapp). Flanked by rough water and rugged barren landscape, it is, indeed, a diamond in the rough. The North Cape complex includes exhibit rooms highlighting regional history, a cinema, restaurant and souvenir shop. I decided to mail the obligatory postcard when I beheld a long-nosed troll with a cane guarding the mail boxes. Ah-ha, so it begins; this immobilized troll was obviously exposed to sunlight too long, I thought.
Travelling south, I intended to observe the functionality of these sun-stunned individuals. Are they really folklore or fallacy? Touring Norway’s three most populous cities, as well as several coastal towns, I utilized various modes of transportation to unravel this mystery.
Aboard Hurtigruten’s MS Trollfjord we cruised by the fairytale island of Senja just south of Tromso. Evidently, the world’s largest troll resides there in a theme park. Our vessel’s namesake fjord is located in the easternmost region of the Lofoten Islands. The area is a hot spot for summertime tourists where daily boat trips are offered. The 2km-long Trollfjord narrows to 100 metres, where our ship carefully negotiated a three-point turn. Lars, a native of Oslo informed us that “an angry troll stumbled over a mountain range with his axe. We are told that with a stroke he made a nice vertical cut into the Raftsund Alps. It became known as the Trollfjord or Raftsund Strait.”
Situated south of the medieval city of Trondheim and 38 kilometres from Oppdal is the small mountain range known as the Troll Mountains (Trollheimen). They are apparently a haven for both dwarf and giant trolls. As we passed through pastures, I peered upon large white circular bales. “Are those bales wrapped up feed for the livestock?” I queried of the Norwegian sitting beside me. “Oh no, they’re troll marshmallows,” he said sincerely. Yes indeed, the evidence accumulates.
We had a short stop-over at Molde, a city renowned for its International Jazz Festival. A bronze statue of a man playing a saxophone stands on the waterfront. No doubt a typical troll transformation, I surmised. Nearby are the reputed Trollkirka mystical caves where a series of three white grottoes are connected by subterranean streams of which one contains a 14-metre-high waterfall.
Southeast of Molde is the cloud shrouded summit of the Troll Wall (Trollveggen). At 1,800 metres, it is the highest vertical mountain wall in Europe, more than three times the height of the “World’s Tallest Freestanding Structure” (Dubai Tower). We motored just southwest of the awesome formation to the Troll Path Road (Trollstigen). As if viewing a horror film through their fingers, passengers were amazed by the adept driver who negotiated the 11 hairpin turns along the steep, narrow roadway en route to Andalsnes. Subsequently, we continued to Alesund to resume passage on our coastal cruise.
We trolled past the often pristine and serene Norwegian coastline into the epitome of “The World’s Most Beautiful Voyage,” the Sognefjord. As the country’s longest and deepest fjord, the Hurtigruten ships enter the mouth of the Sognefjord as they steam south to Bergen. At more than 200 km in length, I assumed this was surely an extensive troll retreat.
Continuing our troll trail on land, we strolled along the historic waterfront known as Bryggen (Wharf). We passed by the Troll Shop, where I was confronted by a troll outside. Was he guarding the store or welcoming people? The clerk inside indicated it was definitely the latter. “They are very popular and often misunderstood,” she informed me holding up a thick book entitled The Original Book of Norwegian Trolls written by Rolf Lidberg. We could vouch for their popularity after seeing myriad miniature figurines of their images being sold as souvenirs. A tasty fruit-flavoured confection called Troll Drops was also available.
We walked further along to the Hanseatic Museum, which highlights the Hanseatic League, a medieval association of merchants. “Have any trolls ever resided here?” I queried. “I don’t believe so,” replied a museum representative. “However, witches may be another story. Trolldom refers to witchcraft, after all.” I imagined the witches and trolls connection may account for the supernatural and ugly factors. “You can visit the site of the witch stone across the harbour,” she added. Evidently, 350 accused witches were burned at the stake there between 1550 and 1700.
Following our tour, she mentioned that if we were going up Mount Floyen for a view, say hello to the mountaintop troll for her. I assured her we would and proceeded to ascend to the summit via the only funicular in the country. Upon arrival, we could see a faint image through the mist and moderate rainfall. Then, an intense stream of sunlight radiated down and shone on the statuesque figure. With an open hand and a dubious grin, the bronzed troll (probably not from tanning lotion) stood motionless before us. We appreciated the greeting from this ossified individual but, due to his overdosing on sunshine, he was far from talkative, so we moved on.
Located just south of Bergen is Edvard Grieg’s former home and present museum nown as the “Hill of Trolls” (Troldhaugen). Fellow Norwegian Henrik Ibsen asked the renowned composer to write music for his famous troll play, Peer Gynt.
Grieg’s international success was due, in part, to a popular concert composition of “Hall of the King of the Trolls” (Dorregublens Hall). During Act 2, Scene 6 (“In the Hall of the Mountain King”), the King’s subjects and trolls are all clamouring for Peer’s blood for having pursued a troll-maiden. Newspaper critic Harold Bloom stated, “in most humans there is a troll, and that Ibsen’s play masterly shows this.”
I concur with his universal assessment that we all possess intrinsic troll traits (to varying degrees). The different troll incarnations of mountains, fjords and waterfalls are human extensions that personify our inherent goodness regardless of our appearance. They are an endearing and enduring endemic symbol; the veritable embodiment of a viable Norwegian subculture.
Before finalizing our quest, we took a trip on the tram-like Troll Train (naturally). The 54-passenger train travels the Måbødalen Valley passing by Norway’s famous Vøringsfossen (waterfall). A dramatic 25-minute train ride runs along an old road, which is closed to ordinary traffic.
Overhearing our Troll talk, a passenger from Trondheim told us “you should make your next real train trip on the Flåmbansa.” Reputedly, this 20-km train tour is one of the world’s most scenic. “You can also see a three troll patrol at the village of Flåm.” With eyebrows raised, we nodded with a smile. The quest continues…
IF YOU GO
Norway Tourism: www.visitnorway.com
Senja Troll Theme Park: www.senjatrollet.no
Troldhaugen (Hill of Trolls) Edvard Grieg Museum: www.troldhaugen.com
North Cape (Nord Kapp): www.nordkapp.com
Hurtigruten Cruises: www.hurtigruten.com
Bergen Tourism: www.visitbergen.com
Mount Floyen Funicular: www.floibanen.no
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