The Sounds of Georgian Bay

The short chirping whistles of osprey and the tremulous wails of the loons echo over the rippling water as motoring boats and humming sea planes permeate the sounds of nature. These sounds abound on the bay yet the key Sounds of Georgian Bay are the waterfront communities of Parry Sound and Owen Sound.

We initiated our tour with a Bay Street strip stroll. At the end of Bay Street is the Bobby Orr Hall of Fame, arguably the best NHL defenseman to ever lace up a pair of blades. A native of Parry Sound, Bobby played for the Oshawa Generals as a junior and the Boston Bruins for a decade, leading them to a pair of Stanley Cup victories. The well-respected and humble individual was the youngest to be inducted into the Hockey Hall of Fame in 1979. In the same year, he was the recipient of the Order of Canada for demonstrating an exceptional level of talent and service to Canadians. This interactive museum offers virtual reality hockey games and features rare memorabilia.

Aerial View of Georgian Bay, with Rose Point Swing Bridge. Photo by Jacquie Durand.

Farther along the street, one can find a couple of eateries to satiate oneself, Kudo Kuisine for a fine dining experience and the popular Bay Street Café. The Bay Street Café sits directly across from the docks harbouring Georgian Airways and the Island Queen cruise vessel.

For a closer look at some of the 30,000 Islands, we board the triple-decker Island Queen. As Canada’s largest sightseeing vessel, it can carry 550 passengers offering two- and three-hour cruises. The two-hour morning cruise reveals the rugged beauty of the inner islands with their windswept pines. An afternoon outer island wilderness cruise exposes secluded waterways and granite-sculpted Precambrian Shield. Referred to as the “sixth Great Lake,” it has the world’s largest concentration of islands and was awarded Biosphere Reserve status in 2004 by the United Nations.

We appear to be threading the needle at one point as the Island Queen navigates through the “Hole in the Wall.” This is the narrowest part of the channel at 34 metres and only four metres deep. We pass Huckleberry Island on the starboard side and Wall Island, a former Ojibwa burial ground centuries ago, on the port side. We observe the natural habitat of the indigenous fowl, as well as the occasional human-made inuksuk.

Following a morning on the water, we were prepared for some air time. What better way to enjoy lunch and at the same time partake in a Fly & Dine experience. Since 2002, Georgian Bay Airways has partnered with HENRY’S Fish Restaurant in Sans Souci Township. It seemed appropriate to pre-order some pan-fried pickerel; after all, we were flying to Frying Pan Island. We flew at approximately 305 metres above the rocky and forested islands for about 10 minutes, or 21 km, as the crow flies. This proved to be a good aerial view of cars crossing over and boats motoring under the Rose Point Swing Bridge connecting to Parry Island. Nicole and Keith Saulnier operate three sea planes, which fly an average of 1,000 passengers a season, being shuttled for this lunchtime experience. “Since its inception, the Fly & Dine remains one of Georgian Bay Airways signature tours. We have added the option to Hike & Fly on Wreck Island, which has gone over extremely well,” Keith explains to us.

Scenic Harrison Park. Photo by Alan G Luke & Jackie Durand.

Arriving at HENRY’S, we select a table overlooking the docks whereupon we are served our fresh golden-brown pan-fried fish. HENRY’S, managed for over two decades by Paul and Joanne Elliott, is also a federally registered airport for various sea plane airlines.

The next morning, we enjoy a scrumptious breakfast at the aptly named “40 Bay Street” Bed & Breakfast. The cozy century home offers three rooms with all the amenities and a quaint sun-porch on which to relax at the end of the day. Jovial proprietor and hostess, Susan, provides fresh fare aplenty for her guests. To aid digestion of our delectable morning meal, we decide to go for a stroll along Parry Sound’s Fitness Trail connecting parks, beaches and historical sites.

Diagonally across the Bay is Owen Sound, just a three-hour drive southwest. The annual weekend Summerfolk at Kelso Beach Park draws close to 12,000 people of all ages. The popular Music and Crafts Festival has numerous musical performers and artisans. We visit the food village and sample some of the cornucopia of culinary creations. Meandering through the park grounds, one can pause for musical entertainment at a half-dozen venues and encounter various craft vendors along the way.

It was nice to see Summerfolk had adopted green initiatives, composting and recycling with a solar-powered dishwashing station. A Quench Buggy was available on site providing free potable water for those with refillable bottles.

Rocky Raccoon Café serves their festival fare on reusable dinnerware. Owned and managed by award-winning Nepalese Chef, Robin Pradhan, his “global cuisine” is a refreshing addition to a local epicurean experience. “The city is the cultural hub of the region with major festivals and events all year long,” Paulette Peirol of Owen Sound Tourism conveys to us. “There is always something happening here.”

Rocky Raccoon Cafe. Photo by Alan G Luke and Jacquie Durand.

During further exploration, we visited the three main waterfalls in the area. North of town is the Indian Falls Conservation Area. A short hike through the woods reveals a horseshoe-shaped alcove highlighting the veiled falls. South of here, the Pottawatomi Conservation Area is home to Jones Falls cascading down a 12-metre rocky slope. We continue along the Bruce Trail, which led us to the Sydenham River and Inglis Falls plunging 18 metres over tiered rocks into a deep gorge.

North of Inglis Falls, the 777 km Bruce Trail leads one into Harrison Park where you can find the historic Freedom Trail. The symbolic Black History Cairn Memorial is located here, recognizing Owen Sound as the most northern terminus on the Underground Railroad. An estimated 100,000 slaves escaped to Canada between 1830 and 1865. The Cairn contains stones from Africa, slave and free states, and Canadian border points to the journey north. This summer, the annual 154th Anniversary Emancipation Celebration Festival (OSEF) will be held in Harrison Park on the weekend before the Civic Holiday (formerly Simcoe Day).
Lieutenant Governor of Upper Canada, John Graves Simcoe (1752–1806), was instrumental in the gradual abolition of slavery by legislating The Slave Act (1793). A re-dedication ceremony of the Cairn with new commemorative stones will be held in this popular 99-acre parkland.

“The Festival is a testament to the city’s multicultural roots and the importance placed on it by the Black community, many of whom can claim they are descendants of slaves,” explains Blaine Courtney (OSEF Chairman). In the TV Series TURN: Washington’s Spies, Simcoe is depicted as a brutal British officer.

Back in town at the Billy Bishop Museum and former home of Canada’s premier World War I fighter pilot is an African-Canadian tribute display entitled “Breaching the Colour Barrier.” The Victorian structure located in a National Historic Site, houses Billy’s 16 military medals, dedication exhibits and memorabilia.

Billy Bishop Home & Museum. Photo by Alan G Luke and Jacquie Durand.

Another interesting museum is located at the former Canadian National Railway waterfront depot. The Marine & Rail Museum offers a rotating collection of artifacts, relics and scale models with a restored CN caboose outside. Also, in front of the museum/tourist info centre is the real-life Ancaster, the venerable vessel that can also be seen depicted on the back of the discontinued Canadian one dollar bill.

Currently, the Grey, Bruce & Simcoe counties are all experiencing resurgence in potent potables. The South Georgian Bay counties were home to several successful breweries and distilleries that emerged with early settlers. Alcohol consumption moved underground due to the Temperance movement and Prohibition laws with secretive bootlegging operations consequently evolving.

“Spirited” ‘Saints & Sinners’ tours of VQA wineries, heritage cideries and craft breweries are available from producers at these facilities and farms. One may enjoy everything from food pairings to full meals to accompany your beverage of choice. They all produce sustainable libations utilizing locally-grown grapes, apples and hops. Time your tour accordingly and you may encounter a homey festival or two en route.

As sure as the regional winds resound and awaken your senses, the invigorating breeze beckons your return to the Sounds of Georgian Bay.