I’m not a fan of enclosed, claustrophobic spaces nor steep, ladder-like stairs that truly challenge my aging quads. But I’ve heard the view from the top of this 1,700-year-old bell tower boasts a pretty panorama of the UNESCO fortress and the shimmering Adriatic beyond. And it’ll also help burn off the Eggs Benny and buttery croissant I devoured this morning on the Lido Deck.
Although we’re safely staying put this pandemic year, I’m reminiscing about our 12-day Mediterranean cruise and Split, one of our nine ports of call.
Croatia’s second largest city, Split is home to 200,000 residents, but it oozes small hamlet charm. Located at the hub is Old Town and The Diocletian’s Palace, originally the retirement digs of a Roman Emperor. And at the core of this thick-walled citadel is the Cathedral of Saint Domnius where our morning step class is happening.
After ascending to the top of the bell tower and recovering from my drum-rolling heart rate, I soak in the sights. Red-roofed homes terrace the hillsides and unite with a bustling promenade of shops and restaurants. They all snuggle up to the sapphire sea where millionaire yachts, tour boats and ferries join our floating hotel.
We exit our aerobic venue into the central Peristil Square and join the hordes of other wanderers who wind their way through the labyrinth of streets. Museums and attractions speckle our routes; Emanual Vidovic Gallery showcases a unique collection of Vidovic’s artwork, the City Museum, sprawling over three floors, shares city stories and local relics from the past, and the Temple Of Jupiter, that was once an ancient Roman temple and dedicated to the King of Gods still flaunts its original barrel-vaulted ceiling.
At the north entrance of Old Town, next to the Gallery of Art, is the towering Gregory of Nin Statue, where we make a wish.
“Just rub his gold toe,” my husband, Brent, encourages as we stare skyward at this monument. “And your wish will come true.” Clearly this superstition has been a popular one, based by the polished brass on this fellow’s foot. I have my hand wipes at the ready after giving it some of my best elbow grease.
We continue meandering through the old town maze and check out many of the shops and restaurants that spill onto the narrow alleys. Tucked into one of the quiet courtyards is the Korta Café, offering a delicious taste of Croatia: lamb with peas, black risotto, grilled fish. I order their authentic Croatian stew, a tasty mix of shrimp, mussels and gnocchi all married together in a yummy broth. Although we’ve been privileged to an endless supply of scrumptious cruise cuisine over the past week, I manage to polish off every last morsel of this local delight.
A line-up of restaurants and coffee bars also hug up along the nearby Riva, Split’s shorefront promenade. Feeling re-fuelled, we exit the old city to saunter this trendy strip where locals and tourists socialize in the shade of billowy palms. Because the city nestles into a peninsula, there are also several beaches that lure sunbathers.
“Want to try out the sandy Ba?vice Beach?” I suggest to Brent, thinking it would be nice for some chill time. “Or there are dozens of pebble shores to choose from. Kašuni and Obojena are two options under Marjan Hill that is nearby.”
“Let’s get a little more exercise,” he suggests. “And take the steps up to the summit of this hilly mound.” Is he a glutton for punishment, or what? Okay, I’ve had a few too many desserts on this holiday, but surely this morning’s workout was enough calorie burning for one day.
There are certainly more relaxing choices available while visiting this Croatian gem. We could take a scenic taxi drive to Sibenik, a nearby city that’s bursting with history or do a tour to the famous Krka Waterfalls that cascade over 17 tiers. Croatia’s UNESCO World Heritage Site National parks have been given rave reviews. And culture abounds at the Mestrovic Gallery that hosts some of Croatia’s finest sculptures. But, oh no! Not for my active guy!
I follow his lead and upward we go. Our centuries-old stones weave through a pine grove of clacking cicadas and fragrant bougainvilleas. En route is Cafe Bar Vidilica, a quaint Mediterranean eatery topped off with a splendid view. While patrons relax and chill out with a beer, we keep going. Peek-a-boo sea vistas are offered along the way and, at step number 300 or so, we reach Prva Vidilica where a welcoming bar overlooks the city and serves the thirsty.
In the nearby forest is a Jewish Cemetery, many of whom perished in the Holocaust and Tito’s Liberation Army. And beyond the gravestones, is a path leading to the Romanesque church of St. Nikolas, dating back to the 13th century.
We take a breather at the nearby terrace to pose for a pic and gaze at the stunning island and mountain views. Driving is an optional route to this highpoint, so there’s no need to break into a sweat to get here (like we’ve just done!). While this lofty landmark satisfies the majority, we keep going onward and upward – more trails and yet another 100-plus steps.
Oddly, closer to the summit, there’s a small zoo. I wonder how they transported the animals here, not to mention all the feral cats.
“We could continue climbing to Telegrin,” Brent suggests, when looking at the map. “Then we’d be at the top of Marjan at the 175-metre mark.”
I’m not sure where my guy gets his energy, but I can relate to why this highpoint has been coined “lungs of the city.” And as I look over the sweeping views from this final heady stance, I can pinpoint the tiny boats on the Adriatic, one being our cruising home away from home, where all the luxurious comforts await, along with a few more delectable meals!
IF YOU GO:
https://visitsplit.com/en/1/welcome-to-split
Photos by Jane & Brent Cassie
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