If you’re tired of the mundane and looking for adventure somewhere other than the ordinary, then look to the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan. Here, you can hike through history, swim in the Dead Sea, and discover the wonders of Wadi Rum.
Lost cities and ancient civilisations are what legends and movies are made of, so open the doors to your imagination and follow me to the ancient Kingdom of Jordan.
Petra, more than 2,300 years old, draws more than one million visitors annually. Cave dwellings, massive colonnaded structures, and a Roman amphitheatre, shouldered alongside numerous impressive monuments, are just a few of the edifices you will encounter here.
In the southern region of Jordan lies the desert of Wadi Rum, and here’s where you’ll find the hand-carved city of Petra. Surrounded by towering rock formations carved by centuries of desert storms and whistling winds, this lost city dates back to 169 BC and sits amidst a silent landscape of rock and sand.
The Arab Nabataean people who settled the area between the Dead Sea and Red Sea chiselled Petra out of the surrounding pink mountain slopes.
The Nabataeans had a strong aptitude for irrigation, as well as a talent for sculpting and decorating in stone.
This city, riddled with temples, tombs, and cave dwellings—all carved using ancient chisels and hammers—will have you pondering the question “How?” The level of engineering achieved at that time boggles the mind.
Through modern technology and satellite imagery, it’s believed only 25–30 per cent of the city has been uncovered. Therefore, Petra continues to attract archaeologists and their teams from around the world to unearth more of this lost city’s buried treasure.
Located in the crosshairs of caravan trails linking Mediterranean countries and beyond, this centre of trade once housed 30,000 inhabitants. However, much like the ever-changing direction of the wind, changing trade routes contributed greatly to the demise of Petra.
The Nabataean tribes eventually left the area, and only the nomadic Bedouins knew of this deserted city until 1812, when it was rediscovered by a Swiss explorer.
Johann Burckhardt, disguised as a nomadic traveller while touring Middle Eastern countries, heard many tales of a lost city. So intrigued was he that his sole mission became finding the lost “Rose City.”
Petra is not immediately visible due to its location within the surrounding mountains. Today, a short drive from the modern town of Wadi Musa will take you to the Visitors’ Centre and main entrance to the Siq (slot canyon).
Camels, donkeys, and horse-drawn buggies are available for hire to take you through this impressive, winding 1.3 km natural rock canyon. Walking, however, will better allow you to absorb the splendour and beauty of it all.
This journey of discovery begins on a wide path leading towards the canyon. Massive Djinn blocks (hand-carved, weathered stones) can be seen along the way. Faint drawings and inscriptions in Arabic can still be seen; however, most have long since eroded. Researchers suggest these large stones represented the Nabataean gods.
Many religious monuments, symbols, niches, and inscriptions are carved into the walls on both sides of the footpath. It’s believed they were meant to protect the city and offer blessings for a safe journey to travellers.
The gently sloping path narrows as you approach the entrance to the Siq. Immediately spellbound by the raw and natural beauty of the gorge, one’s mind conjures up images of lively caravans of traders who travelled this canyon centuries ago. Listen to the whispers of the past as you explore this canyon. The rock colour changes continuously as the rising sun casts its shadow upon these towering walls. Excitement propels me.
Suddenly, as though peering through a keyhole, a sliver of the site presents itself. Rounding the final bend lands me directly in front of Al Khazneh (The Treasury). The sheer size and detailing are outstanding and completely capture and fuel the imagination. Travel magazines are saturated with photos of this one astonishing sight. However, compared to the vastness of this historical location, this one structure materialises as a murmur in the crowd.
Many superbly carved tombs are sculpted into two or three stories of differently coloured rock.
The Royal Tombs (a cluster of four tombs) should not be missed. The Urn Tomb contains a large inner chamber believed to have been converted to a church in 446 AD. The Corinthian Tomb contains four burial chambers, while the largest Palace Tomb consists of three levels and four entrances. It’s alleged that the lower level was used for religious ceremonies celebrating the dead.
The last and most dramatically coloured tomb is the Silk Tomb, with the name thought to have derived from the vibrant colours encrusted in the stone, like layered silk scarves. So unusual at first sight, it appears to be fabricated, but upon closer inspection, you can identify the natural colours of the rock.
Centuries of desert winds can be felt on your fingertips as you sweep them across the smoothness of the cool stone.
A strong Roman influence is perceived in the Treasury and Monastery, as well as a Roman theatre constructed in the centre of the city. The theatre consists of 45 rows of seats chiselled from stone and once sat 6,000 people. Badly deteriorated, it still remains an impressive site.
A lesser-known path, often referred to as the “back door,” leads you into another remarkable slot canyon called Siq al-Barid (Cold Canyon). This northern entrance leads straight into “Little Petra,” where you’ll find an added complex of intricately carved temples and monuments, including many of the caves that once housed the Bedouin populace.
With fewer people knowing this alternate route, getting around is much easier and offers more opportunities to enter the temples and caves.
One impressive cave contains two large rooms with sleeping quarters, a fire pit, and a sink for washing—all carved into the rock. Most of it would have been covered with warm carpets and blankets.
Due to its size, this specific cave is believed to have been used for important travellers stopping overnight.
Little Petra was considered an ideal stopover location for caravans travelling the Silk Road. From here, an 8 km trail leads directly into the heart of Petra.
This entire area has been inhabited by Bedouin tribes since ancient times. Many older-generation Bedouins continue the old ways in order to hold onto their traditions. However, it appears today that Petra sits on the periphery of the ancient and western world.
In 1985, the government forcibly repositioned the Bedouin people into housing overlooking the city. The idea behind the move was to allow archaeologists and their teams to carry on with excavations unimpeded.
As a compromise for the relocation, Bedouin people are permitted to continue working inside Petra as shopkeepers, guides, restaurateurs, and transporters.
These public services provide a decent living for the Bedouin population still living there. Infused throughout the site are shops selling beautiful hand-carved jewellery, raw incense, scarves, bags, and assorted souvenirs of Petra.
Even though Petra is Jordan’s largest tourist draw, this country has many outstanding and noteworthy cities and sites worth visiting. The excitement and wonder of the country’s diverse landscape have served as a backdrop for several movies.
Mt. Nebo, believed by many to be the location of Moses’s death, has been a pilgrimage destination since early Christian times. Stunning panoramic views and thought-provoking sites surround the Memorial of Moses.
In close-by Madaba, the ancient Byzantine mosaics located inside St. George Church are some of the finest in the world, including a mosaic map of the Middle East.
Enter Jerash through Hadrian’s Wall to stroll those ancient streets. Extremely well-preserved Roman colonnaded avenues and soaring hilltop temples can be seen, while the sound of pipers echoes throughout the Hippodrome Theatre
Not far from the capital city of Amman stands the ancient Karak Castle, constructed during the Crusades and later expanded and refortified. Striking views overlook the city from this vantage point.
Watersports abound in Aqaba. The crystal-clear waters of the Red Sea have some of the most remarkable reefs and dive sites in the world. People flock here from around the globe to dive in these waters.
Want more adventure? Experience travel by camel through the desert of Wadi Rum. Stay at an authentic Bedouin desert camp and sleep in a goat-hair tent. Sit around a campfire under a cobalt-blue, star-studded sky while listening to storytellers explain the local folklore.
Jordanian food is prepared with only the freshest ingredients and spices to stimulate the taste buds. Creamy yoghurts, fresh olives, dates, currants, meats, chicken, and fragrant rice or couscous are just a small sampling of what you might find on the table. The traditional dish of “Mansaf” is a must-try if you like lamb. For a more enriching experience, hire a local guide and feel the history of Jordan come alive. I’m glad I did!
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