Famous for its potatoes and birthplace to Canada’s Confederation, Prince Edward Island might be Canada’s smallest province, but it packs a big punch when it comes to cycling. In 2000, PEI converted its original 1870’s train tracks into Confederation Trail, a recreational trail spanning 273 kilometres from one tip of the island to the other, making it one of the first provinces to join the Trans-Canada Trail.
Over the years, the province has added branch trails (now the trails total 435 kms), making most of the island accessible via bicycle. The beauty of converted train track cycling is that the grade is never more than two per cent. So, get your cycling legs in shape and follow this guide for a perfect sampling of all this tiny island has to offer.
Charlottetown to St. Peter’s
Arrange a car rental (with a GPS) at the Charlottetown airport. Drive to MacQueen’s Bike Shop, where the friendly staff will deck you out with a rental bike (a hybrid is best), a bike rack and all things necessary for the trails.
Head 40-minutes east to Morell, and park at the Old Morell Train Station. Initially settled in 1720, this tiny village, at one time, was the capital of PEI and a thriving lumber trade and ship building community.
Morell to Greenwich National Park
Start cycling the 11-km trail here to St. Peter’s Bay. This picturesque, peaceful stretch is a favourite for locals and tourists alike. You will pass old homesteads with red soil driveways, expansive rolling farmland with fields of potatoes, soy beans and wheat, small forest groves and wildflower patches filled with milkweed, spotted Joe-Pye weed, cow parsnip and fireweed.
As you cross the Morell River bridge, the longest bridge on the trail, stop to spot the gears that were once turned to open the bridge for passing ships. On the left is St. Peter’s Bay, with buoys marking string-after-string of mussel socks, where mussels are farmed. Way-finding signs are aplenty, pointing out distances and local services.
Take the bridge across the Bay to the picturesque town of St. Peter’s. Up a short, but steep hill, turn left in front of a lovely white church and graveyard, St. Peter’s Roman Catholic. Have lunch at the award-winning Inn at St. Peter’s (the lobster roll is fabulous).
Continue along this narrow peninsula, which separates the Bay from the Gulf of St. Lawrence to Greenwich National Park. The park protects the rare and fragile, parabolic rolling dunes that move with the wind at a rate of two to four metres per year. Park your bike and walk the floating boardwalk across Bowley Pond, filled with cattails and reeds, to the stunning white sand beaches and dunes covered with swaying marram grass. Save time to visit the interpretive centre to learn about the eco-system of the dunes and their rich history.
Overnight at the Inn at St. Peter’s in a cute cabin and prepare to see a spectacular sunset over the Bay. These are so country cottage, you can hear the Ayrshire cows mooing (dairy is big on PEI, their cheeses win international awards).
Don’t miss: The three-course seasonal dinner at the Inn. You won’t be disappointed.
North Rustico to Cavendish
Drive 75 minutes to North Rustico, a small fishing village that specializes in lobster dinners and deep-sea fishing charters, and park in the public parking lot at the marina. A short, uphill cycle through town will bring you to Gulf Shore Way, a newly paved two-way trail through PEI National Park. This delightful nine-km route alongside the Gulf will have you dodging bees and butterflies, as you wind past the amazing, iconic red sandstone cliffs of Cavendish.
For Anne of Green Gables lovers, take a left to Cavendish where Anne memorabilia abounds, including author Lucy Maud Montgomery’s family home, 19th-century gardens and farmyard — the setting that inspired the story. Thanks to this literary classic, Cavendish has been attracting tourists since the 1920s.
Back on the trail, continue past the Cavendish campsite to the 8.4-km Homestead Trail loop, where the pavement turns into a quiet, tree-canopied wagon trail, popping out again by the water. Boardwalk bridges take you over red-soiled estuaries and into farmers’ hay fields.
Cycle back to North Rustico the same way you came and take time along the way to explore the secluded coves and red-sand beaches.
Stay at Shaw’s Hotel at Blackley Point (20 minutes from North Rustico), a seaside hotel located on an old farm and Canada’s oldest family-operated inn. Ask for one of the antique-furnished guestrooms. The ambiance is much like it would have been in 1860 when it opened – you can imagine bumping into one of the Fathers of Confederation at any moment.
Don’t miss: Kayaking in the bay. Shaw’s has kayaks for guests.
Montague to Georgetown
Drive an hour east to Montague, a small town named for the river that runs through it, and park at the marina. Here is the trailhead for one of the branch trails of the Confederation. This leg of the trail is mostly forested and takes you over Brudenell Bridge, the highest on the trail. Stop here to check out the estuary below. If you’re lucky, you might see a great blue heron.
At the Cardigan junction (10 km), stay to the right and cycle the nine kms to Georgetown. This little village was the first national deep-water harbour on the eastern seaboard and once a major ship building centre. Its wealthy history is evidenced by a collection of beautiful Victorian heritage buildings and the largest botanical garden on PEI, built to commemorate Andrew Macdonald (one of the Fathers of Confederation), who once lived here.
Cycle back to the car, then drive to Panmure Island (you can cycle, but it’s a busy road). Connected to PEI via a causeway, this 324-hectare island is home to white sand beaches, long stretches of shoreline with a view to the sea, and PEI’s oldest wooden lighthouse, built in 1853. At 18 metres, with its bright white paint and red gabled windows, you can’t miss it.
Back in Georgetown, stay in a tastefully decorated room at the classic revival-style 1840 Georgetown Inn, and enjoy the cool ocean breeze and view of the Georgetown Harbour from the wooden deck.
Don’t miss: Four-course lobster dinner aboard the River Run Dining Cruise boat, which boards at Montague Harbour. The sunset is stunning.
With a population of only about 150,000, 54 per cent being rural, the pace on PEI is slow and the people are friendly. The cuisine is fresh and delicious, landscapes are spectacular, and the island is home to more than 800 kms of the warmest beaches north of the Carolinas, making quick dips after a long day of cycling easy. This is a cyclist’s paradise.
SIDEBAR:
Trail Tips from Ruth DeLong, Tourism PEI’s Trails Community Relations Coordinator:
– Cycling the Confederation Trail from tip-to-tip will take FIVE days and four nights (average 45-60 kms per day);
- Start from the west and go east, so the prevailing winds are at your back;
- Optimal time to do the trail is mid-August to end-September: the changing leaves are beautiful, mosquitos are minimal and it’s not as hot as in July. In the late fall, carry food and water, as sometimes there are minimal places to purchase them;
- Take the time to read the interpretive panels to learn about the history and information on the flora and fauna;
- Make hotel/inn reservations, especially for July and August (this past year PEI had the most overnight stays ever at one million);
- Although you’ll likely see some squirrels, red foxes or rabbits, there are no bears, wolves or cougars (not even deer) on the island, so wildlife is not a threat for solo cycling.
IF YOU GO:
See tourismpei.com for more info on the island
Confederation Trail Guide: www.gov.pe.ca/photos/original/tour_confed_gui.pdf
Learn about the varieties of craft beer brewed in the Maritimes from Ian Carter: https://www.seniorlivingmag.com/articles/maritimes-craft-beers
Panmure Island Lighthouse: https://www.loc8nearme.com/prince-edward-island/montague/panmure-island-lighthouse-and-gift-shop/7200700
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