Like many today, Marian Lowery and husband, Bruce Dolsen, embrace retired life with enthusiasm. Regularly taking on new projects and challenges, they engage their minds, expand their interests and enrich their lives.
Recently, they planned and realized their long-time dream of visiting South America. Thorough pre-trip preparations included strict training… and even Spanish lessons to polish language skills.
Easing into holiday mode around Lima, Peru, Marian and Bruce approached the next few days differently than most. Separately, they headed for Cusco and devoted some time to solo endeavours, each immersing themselves in activities of personal interest.
Bruce in Cusco
Flying into Cusco earlier than Marian, Bruce landed amid a general strike. Workers protested contracting out the reconstruction and privatization of heritage projects to foreigners. No taxis or buses entered or left the airport. What to do?
He set out walking, dragging his suitcase behind him for six kilometres. Halfway into town, he was picked up and driven warily through the backstreets, until the cabdriver became nervous and suddenly dropped him off. “It was indeed a festive two-hour walk through streets packed with people, no cars,” Bruce recalls. “And a quick introduction to the culture!”
Located over 11,000-feet in the Peruvian Andes, Cusco was once capital of the mighty Inca Empire. Known today for its Spanish colonial monuments and Inca ruins, exploring the city provided Bruce delightful encounters.
A passionate artist, he absorbed Cusco’s lively ambience through drawing. His pencil captured characters, scenarios and activities around the main plaza and along side streets; his sketchbook filled with illustrations of residents going about their day. In Museo Inka courtyard, one weaver sat on the cobblestones, chewing coca leaves while creating ancient textile patterns on a backstrap loom, a portable device that uses the weaver’s body to provide needed tension. Others busily spun wool using wooden bobbins.
Bruce later colourized the sketches with watercolours; these “snapshots” became a detailed experiential record, often the basis for future paintings. Occasionally, he sold his work on the spot.
Wandering into the School of Fine Arts, Bruce exchanged ideas with fellow artist Elias Rodriguez. While there, a special music and dance event illustrated the strong pride of cultural identity. Peruvian students had gathered for a traditional folkdance festival. In elaborate regional costumes, groups competed for small cash prizes. “What high-spirited, enthusiastic fun,” Bruce recalls.
Invited afterward to the Rodriguez home, high in the surrounding hills, he saw how Elias, also an instrument maker, created the 10-string “charango,” carving its body from a single piece of orangewood. Widespread throughout the Andes, this popular musical instrument belongs to the lute family.
Small local buses routinely gathered riders along routes into the countryside. One such “collective” ride brought Bruce another compelling connection. Delivering books from Canadian friends, he visited a family in Chinchero village, known for Sunday markets. The welcoming family returned the favour, sending gifts back to Canada with him. “Even with minimal language, friendly interactions with local people are always possible – and rewarding. Smiles make the best icebreaker of all,” he says.
And with a ticket purchased at a travel agency in town, Bruce made his way to Machu Picchu, located high in the Andes. A 15-passenger bus picked him up at the hotel, a 3 a.m. train transfer. Because Peruvians protect access to their iconic site, passport ID was required throughout the trip. Upon arrival at the sanctuary, one last bus took him up a steep, winding roadway and there, the fabled citadel waited!
Marian’s Story
Meanwhile, Marian met with her group of multi-aged hiking enthusiasts. Strolling Cusco’s marketplace oriented everyone before touring the Sacred Valley. “At one co-operative, women demonstrated spinning, weaving and using natural dyes,” she journalized, a dedicated weaver herself.
Pisac fortress ruins show Incas as excellent builders of terraces, aqueducts, granaries and military quarters. “The glorious light shining over the hillsides and small town of Ollantaytambo helped us imagine what the solstices might look like,” muses Marian.
The three-and-a-half-day Inca Trail expedition to Machu Picchu begins. Marian’s motivation for this rigorous hike in the Andes involves her dedication to physical health and fundraising for the Alzheimer’s Association. Setting goals and working toward them helped her train hard and prepare vigorously with purpose for many months. As with her past journey up Mt. Kilimanjaro, high altitude treks present parallels to the Alzheimer journey: good preparation, a strong team of supporters and a focus on the present… not simply the end target.
Walking, Looking, Remembering
“Along a little-visited section, the narrow Inca Trail is paved with flat rocks; you can’t get lost,” Marian says. Climbing slowly amid towering peaks required a personal pace, good care with trail surfaces and, importantly, stops to breathe and appreciate views down the Urubamba River valley. Each night, tents are pitched on narrow terraced ledges. Curious llamas sometimes roamed through camp with their herders. “And even with local guides and porters providing the right decisions, the right help, tough days followed,” she remembers.
Repaired in places, sections of the ancient path are re-routed through residents’ lands to take advantage of services needed by the 300-400 daily climbers, all steadily ascending through terraced fields cultivating potatoes or grazing llamas of various colours.
“Descent to camp each evening began over slick rocks, mostly staircase-like. Occasional “Peruvian flats” encouraged us onward,” Marian smiles. “Along the way, hikers from the young to much older, like me. Of many porters, some were running… and in assorted footgear from plastic sandals to proper boots! Four shouldered 140-pound I-beams for a bathroom under construction.” Historically, such “warriors” transported goods from the coast to Cuzco; these descendants still take pride in this work.
Though “ups” were not extreme, “downs” were slippery. Long, hard hiking days ensued! Conserving energy to Dead Woman’s Pass was necessary, a gradual altitude gain of 3,200 feet. “We did it in about five hours, stepping deliberately, using our poles,” Marian proudly reports. “And as with Alzheimer’s, “brain fog” rolled in.” With altitude a challenge, frequent breaks allowed heart rates to stabilize in thinner air. Views from the 13,000-foot “saddle” proved breathtaking… but just briefly! Clouds moved in; rains started falling.
During the third night, rains pummeled the tents, early signs the rainy season was starting. “Setting out at 3 a.m., our headlamps lit the flagstone trail winding sharply downward. Two hours to the sanctuary’s Sun Gate, the same way the Incas came – but definitely a “cloud gate” when we arrived, sodden and eager to see Machu Picchu,” she beams.
At the Citadel
Amid the many tourists entering the ancient city, Marian and Bruce met up at Machu Picchu’s base. After sharing a guided tour, they roamed the dry-stone palaces and plazas, temples and homes for a half-day. Built in the 15th century, this hallowed complex has been a World Heritage Site since 1983.
Though arriving by different means, they returned to Cusco together. During the three-hour train ride back along the beautiful Urubamba River, both swapped stories, reliving their unique experiences with one another. And as their South American adventure continued into Uruguay, Argentina and Chile, carried treasured memories of Peru along with them.
Boomers like Marian and Bruce exemplify the rewards of leading an engaged, active retirement. In adding regularly to their own life story, they inspire others.
For More Information:
www.gadventures.com/trips/the-inca-trail G Adventures for itinerary planning.
www.alzheimerbc.org Alzheimer Association of BC.
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