“Welcome to Gananoque,” my husband reads, pronouncing it incorrectly, as we cruise beneath the stone and timber archway. “It’s actually Gan-an-ock-way,” I respond, sounding out each syllable, “and it means a place of health.” During this two-day getaway (while reminding him of the pronunciation at least a dozen more times), we discover that this hamlet, 30 minutes east of Kingston, Ontario, lives up to its name.
Though the First Nations people take credit for its meaning, British loyalist, Joel Stone established it as a township in 1792. A few years later, the neighbouring St. Lawrence River became a popular spot for war engagements and, on September 21, 1812, this ‘Gateway to the Thousand Islands’ was invaded. But by the mid-1800s, things had settled down, factories and castles emerged along the nearby shorelines and settlers came from far afield to live in this riverside oasis.
A self-guided walking tour weaves over the downtown core and sheds light on this past. Up front and centre is the Arthur Child Heritage Museum, an amazing depository that archives everything from the early fur traders to founding fathers. Steps away is the Town Hall, a brick-pillared gem that has served multiple purposes since 1831: courthouse, jail hall, meeting space and, today, a wedding venue.
Tree-lined roads branch out from the main body of King Street and welcome us like open arms. We saunter by Auberge Victoria Rose, once the elaborate summer home of the city’s first mayor, check out the neo-gothic architecture of the original 1888 post office, and photograph the stunning stained glass that embellishes two lovely limestone churches.
Just beyond, perched over the river’s edge, is the Thousand Islands Playhouse. For the past 40 years, this century-old structure has been luring screenplay aficionados. There are two venues to choose from –somewhat edgier productions at the Firehall stage or more traditional performances at the Springer. We opt for the latter and see Till It Hurts – a raging comedy about an exasperating telemarketer and a frazzled professor. And throughout the entire two hours, the witty writing, stellar acting and amusing one-liners keep us in stitches.
It’s no surprise that glorious Gananoque attracts lots of artisans. As well as this venue, we browse through works in the Woodchuck Gallery, creative pieces at the VAGA (Visual Arts of Gananoque and Area) and displays at the Three Horse Art Show, an annual exhibit of original watercolours, oils and acrylics in the nearby community of Lansdowne.
And when it’s time to really escape, we head to the Glen House Resort, a getaway gem six kilometres from town that hugs up to its own scalloped shoreline. Since 1963, the Seal family has maintained its century-old legacy by integrating vacationing pleasures with regional treasures.
Assorted accommodations that sprawl over the lush property unite with recreation pastimes, spa pampering and culinary options. And though the fronting St. Lawrence River is a favourite spot for boaters and fishers, we find the backdrop just as alluring – 18 velvety fairways of Smuggler’s Glen.
“You’d better take a few extra balls,” advises the receptionist at the golf pro shop, as we head out on the back nine of this Barr-designed beauty. I’d read that parts of this course were etched out of craggy Canadian Shield and dotted with a few tricky bunkers. But with five ability levels at each tee to choose from, how many balls could I lose? I end up following his recommendation – and it’s a good thing I do.
My first is gobbled up by the rough stuff that fringes the elevated tenth tee. Coinciding ponds on fairway 12 drink up two more. A stand of white pine and thick bordering flora are now home to a few others. Yet despite my loss on these links, it’s been well worth it. From the manicured fairways, undulating plateaus and promontory bluffs, we’ve been rewarded with scenic views. And even though I only have one ball remaining at the end of the game, I’d gladly do it all over again!
On our final day, we head out on a boat tour and, with Captain Jack at the helm, we cruise the neighbouring Thousand Islands. “This destination is somewhat of a misnomer,” we’re told through the loudspeakers. “There are actually 1,864 islands in this archipelago that straddles the Canada/US border.”
The Thousand Islands Bridge offers another link to our American neighbours, and dotting the sapphire water just beyond are countless evergreen gems that range in size from rocky outcroppings to 100 sq km landscapes. Some are home to shore-rimmed shacks, others to palatial manors. As well as luring the rich and royal, many have been past haunts to famous singers, songwriters, businessmen and barons.
The major feature en route is the Boldt Castle, a mansion of towers and turrets and the story of a man’s love and loss. In 1904, self-made millionaire, George C. Boldt had this 120-room estate constructed especially for his wife, but she died before this gift was completed. All building was abruptly stopped, and the broken-hearted widower never returned. For decades it was left abandoned and fell mercy to weathering and vandalism. But, in 1977, it became a major restoration project and since then has been revived to a magnificent state.
After looping beyond this fortress, we retrace our route and take in more scenic overload. Jet skiers, swanky yachts and fishing boats join us in skimming the surface while divers dressed in neoprene seek out the treasures beneath. “Because of so many shipwrecks, I’ve heard this is one of the best fresh-water diving destinations in the world,” I say to my husband as we pull into the dock at Gananoque. “Maybe that’s why the Indigenous named it ‘The Garden of the Great Spirit.’
“And right next to this place of health,” he replies. “It’s gotta be good – whether you pronounce it properly or not!”
IF YOU GO:
Check out Gananoque Tourism – http://www.gananoque.com/
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