“A little wildlife and some colour would be nice to see,” my husband, Brent, says wistfully. “And the occasional ocean view would be great, too. But then, that’s a given.”
We’d planned this trip to Cape Breton on Canada’s east coast with hopes of getting some visual overload, not only of the many dramatic coastlines, vibrant bays and empty beaches, but also the burst of colour that happens every fall. Ruby reds, glorious golds, and outrageous oranges dot the rolling hillsides like a pointillist painting, providing a riot of hues that surpass any artist’s canvas. But Mother Nature seems to be a bit tardy this year in delivering the eye-popping goods and everything in Vancouver is still pretty green.
The Cabot Trail, a 300-kilometre route that loops around the Cape, is touted to be one of Canada’s finest road trips. While embracing the area’s Scottish heritage, it showcases some of the East Coast’s spectacular vistas and landscapes. And during this time of year, it’s usually ablaze with colour. Fingers crossed!
Our home base is in the seaside city of Sydney at Colby House B&B, a 1904 beauty that blends modern-day perks with old world charm – period antiques, cushy robes and scrumptious breakfasts dished up with congenial hospitality by owners, Bev and Gordon Gabriel. After fuelling up on a two-course, home-cooked feast, we head off with hopes of fulfilling Brent’s dreams.
The views are more dynamic when travelling counterclockwise around this magnificent land mass, so after taking a 10-minute cable ferry from Englishtown, we veer north onto the Cabot Trail that parallels the shoreline. Within short order, shimmering St. Ann’s Bay melds into the endless Atlantic that stretches to the horizon, and the sun casts a blinding sheen over the ocean’s still surface.
“Can you see Europe out there?” Brent jokes. “That’s the next neighbour across this body of water.”
Small villages dot our route, and as we rise and dip from mountaintop to sea level, we’re privy to impressive vistas along the way. Cape Breton Highland National Park stakes claim to about a third of the Cabot Trail (950-square kilometres) and just beyond the Visitor’s Centre is where the real highlights begin.
The first must-stop is Ingonish, a seaside hamlet where there’s something for everyone. In warmer weather, swimmers are lured to its expansive beachfront, golfers zero in on the Highland Links Course, and the indulgent set make a beeline year-round to the Keltic Lodge, a hilltop haven overlooking Cape Smokey and South Bay.
A total of 26 hiking trails thread around this natural paradise, two of which are located here. Franey Loop, a steep, three-hour ascension, rewards with ocean and river vistas, while the Middle Head trail descends shoreward where the seabirds hang out.
“Did I tell you that my wish list also includes a hike?” Brent asks. “Which one do you want to go for?”
I check our trusty map that pinpoints the trailheads and provides a brief synopsis of each. A few lead to tranquil lakes, others to cascading waterfalls and many to panoramic viewpoints. It’s too difficult a decision, so we mosey on.
My camera goes into full action mode over the next hour as we wind our way along the Atlantic Coast: Broad Beach’s pristine shore, Lakies Head’s ruddy-coloured boulders, the delightful rocky curves of Green and MacKinnons Coves. All are picture worthy.
Although there’s nothing commercialized within the park boundaries, whenever the road veers outside of its borders, restaurants, galleries, studios and gift shops pop up along our way. Faux lighthouses sell ice cream, quaint diners feature fresh lobster, and cozy cottages promise a quiet stay.
From Neil’s Harbour, we head inland, stopping at Dinena’s to fuel up on fresh out-of-the-oven pastries, then continue, carving our way through the lush mounds of still-green deciduous trees. Scenic viewpoints are etched into this route where, in a couple of weeks, the now-vague hues will really pop, transforming the rolling landscape into a Monet-like masterpiece.
Today, instead of these pullouts, we check out a few picnic stops: the picturesque Big Intervale that straddles the North Aspy River; the trickling falls at MacIntosh Brook; the scenic platforms that view the Gulf of St. Lawrence. After traversing the pristine parkland, we’re now looking Northwest over this massive waterway. We cruise through Pleasant Bay, a quaint community settled by Scottish immigrants in the early 1800s and now coined the Island’s Whale Watching Capital. Based on the advertising billboards, it’s a pretty popular pastime.
A few minutes down the road is MacKenzie Mountain lookout where there’s another opportunity to witness these breaching mammals. Unfortunately, none are performing for us today.
“Well, let’s hit the next trail,” says Brent, “so at least one of my wishes comes true.”
The easy-graded gravel Skyline is so well maintained that even baby buggies can partake. We take the road less travelled and go the longer, more rugged route and, soon after dividing from the masses, Brent’s second wish comes true. Bordering our byway is lower vegetation that’s ablaze with colour. An orchard-size patch of burnt orange ferns ignite the way and lead to a fork in the trail where we literally cross the path of wish number three: a long-legged and gangly female moose. Fortunately, no calves are around, and she is comfortable being photographed 50 or more times.
The last wish comes to fruition when we re-join others at literally the highpoint of this jaunt. Wind-torn, stunted trees edging our route are an indication of sub-zero temperatures brought on by Old Man Winter, and a boardwalk that stretches over these Scottish-like highlands protects the fragile alpine growth beneath.
At the end of the path, we can see the winding roadway far below that will soon take us by more villages, townships and vistas along the final leg of this Cabot Trail. But for now, we’re riveted to Mother Nature and her glory, a panorama of the craggy headland and the shimmering blue water that stretches beyond –another amazing must-see, and final wish-come-true for one happy husband.
IF YOU GO:
Where to Stay:
Colby House B&B: www.colbyhousebb.com
Where to Dine:
Flavor – This local pleaser and has been voted the best place to dine in Sydney. Gourmet sandwiches, homemade soups, yummy desserts, along with options for those who are vegan and gluten-free.
http://cbflavor.com/dt-menu
Old Triangle Pub – This Irish public house dishes up the best burgers and beers, topped off with live entertainment. www.oldtrianglesydneyns.com/welcome/
Tourist information: www.cbisland.com
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