Strings of twinkling lights line the streets where dozens of booths are whimsically decorated with pine boughs, glittering stars and red ribbons. Sublime food aromas like savoury bratwurst, sweet waffles, chocolate and cheesy fondues permeate the air.
Most visitors, including me, have a steaming mug of gluhwein (German mulled wine) in hand as we check out the vendors selling everything from handmade wooden Christmas-tree ornaments to locally crafted clothing and knitwear. I’m at my first-ever European Christmas Market in Basel, Switzerland.
Earlier that day at the port in Basel, with the 154 other passengers, we boarded the Ama Mora, one of AMA Waterways twin-balcony Rhine River cruising ships for a Christmas Markets on the Rhine cruise. On the seven-day cruise, we will visit markets in Switzerland, France and Germany on our way to Amsterdam.
Christmas markets in Europe have a long history, especially in Germany, where they date back to the Middle Ages. Markets are often held in the old town squares, close to a church, historically to get more people to attend church services. Generally, the markets run the entire Advent period, the last week of November until December 24th.
But this cruise is about more than just Christmas markets, and each day there is a chance to learn about the rich local history. Here are some highlights for me from each of the four countries we stopped in.
LUCERNE, SWITZERLAND
Usually just over an hour’s drive from the Basel port, our trip to the beautiful lakeside setting of Lucerne takes us double that due to a snowstorm. Lucerne has more fresco paintings than anywhere else in Switzerland, and houses decorated with frescoes line the square in the car-free Old Town.
My favourite is the medieval Chapel Bridge, one of the oldest covered wooden bridges in Europe, built in 1332. The bridge runs from New Town on the south bank of the Reuss to the medieval Old Town and the water tower. The extraordinary 17th century picture panels within the eaves depict historic Swiss scenes. Tragically, many of the original paintings were destroyed in a 1993 fire but have subsequently been restored.
STRASBOURG, FRANCE
An overnight cruise through some locks (the Rhine was canalized for hydropower starting in 1932) brings us to our France stop, Strasbourg. Historically a former territory of the German empire, the city was taken over by the French in 1681 for the first time. Subsequently, the city has ping-ponged back and forth between the Germans and the French, resulting in an interesting blend of the two cultures.
As we stroll along the slushy sidewalks in the Parc de l’Orangerie, our guide is proud to point out the gargantuan stork’s nests high in the treetops. In the late 20th century, the storks were on the edge of extinction, but local conservationists took to raising mating pairs. Now more than 900 storks have been born in the park.
The Christmas market set next to the Notre Dame Cathedral is Europe’s oldest (dating back to 1570), and now the city hosts 11 others. With the snow falling gently on the bustling market and the backdrop of the striking masterpiece of the cathedral’s Gothic architecture, I feel like I’m inside a magical snow globe.
THE RHINE GORGE
That night, we cruise into Germany, and after morning stops at several markets, we spend a sunny afternoon cruising through the Rhine Gorge, a UNESCO World Heritage site protected for its history. The Rhine is important as it once formed the northern boundary of the Roman Empire and was used for trade and military strategy, so defence structures, castles and cathedrals from the Middle Ages still dot its banks.
On this 65-kilometre section of the Rhine Valley, the river flows through a deep gorge. Vineyards fleck the mountainsides, so steep that at harvest the pickers need to rope up to harvest the grapes. Over 40 hilltop castles and fortresses were erected along this section over a period of 1,000 years, most now picturesque ruins. The day finishes off with a tour through one of these, the 13th century Castle Lahneck, where we learn about stories of warfare and tragedy as we follow the guide through the remaining rooms.
COLOGNE
Cologne is considered to have some of the best Christmas markets in Germany, but it also attracts several million visitors a year. After pushing our way through the markets, we opt for a Kolsch tasting tour at a local pub, and enjoy a glass of this bright, hoppy beer the way the locals do — with a warm, crispy potato pancake served with applesauce. Kolsch is a German beer that is strictly brewed to certain specifications and geographically defined to be made only within 50 kilometres of Cologne.
Cologne is unique in that the nearly 2,000-year-old city was mostly destroyed in World War II bombings. The Cologne Cathedral, started in the 13th century and completed in 1880, miraculously remained standing, and still towers over the streets with an ethereal glow.
AMSTERDAM
Our final cruise down the Amsterdam-Rhine Canal brings us to our last port of call. The iconic windmills are visible and already the waterway is higher than the surrounding land, flood controlled by canals.
Christmas markets in Amsterdam aren’t such a big deal, and on our last day we take a canal tour, hands-down the best way to see the city.
Amsterdam’s canal system dates back to the 17th century and, from the water, we get a front-row view of the charming houseboats (there are over 3,000), as the guide explains the city’s extensive trading history and its most famous landmarks, like the Rijksmuseum and the Anne Frank house.
The next day, as I board my plane to return home, I can’t think of a time when I’ve felt more in the spirit for the holiday season.
IF YOU GO:
Check out the options for Rhine Christmas Market Cruises with AMA Waterways at https://www.amawaterways.com
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