Both hands are firmly clasped around his chubby belly and between his wide-spread legs is an impressive body part that would delight any demi-God. Although early artisans once removed this appendage, today his entire image stands visibly intact and is even minted on a special coin. Tangaroa, the Maori guardian of the ocean, is a well-known deity of The Cook Islands and is one of the first carved artifacts we encounter during our recent Rarotonga experience.
The 15 fabled Cook Islands sprinkle over two million kilometres of sapphire South Pacific, and though just west of Tahiti and south of Hawaii, they are idyllically removed from any commercialized bustle. Rarotonga is the queen bee of them all, and during our visit we discover how her roots entwine with present day treasures.
The award-winning cultural village sprawls over the lush inland property just seven kilometres from the island’s vibrant hub of Avarua, and beneath Polynesian-style amphitheatres, knowledgeable natives reveal historical tidbits. Lara, a brown-eyed beauty, wearing a full-faced smile and frangipani behind one ear, begins our journey back in time.
“Nobody’s really sure where our ancestors originated from, but we do know that this little fellow was the fisherman’s God for good luck,” she shares, while proudly cradling the well-endowed idol, Tangaroa. Although sporting a stout stature, there’s absolutely nothing little about this creatively carved saint, and I immediately understand why he would have been worshipped by the male gender, whether they were at sea or not.
We discover that the first recorded sighting of a Cook Island was by Alvaro de Mendana, a Spanish chap, way back in 1595. Exploration in the area remained dormant until 1773, when Captain James Cook came along, and although this well-known explorer never set foot on Rarotonga, the entire chain adopted his name. “Raro” was actually discovered by Fletcher Christian, a first mate mutineer, soon after Captain Bligh and his boys were sent adrift following the infamous mutiny.
Lara wraps up the condensed Cook History lesson by sharing the spiritual movement that took place in the 1820s. “Polynesian missionaries successfully transformed the population of angry cannibals to Christians,” she informs, “and all in less than a year’s time.” Now that’s conversion!
Sunday remains a day of rest, and church continues to be a cornerstone in Cook Island culture today. Although there are varied denominations, 70 per cent of the population attends Presbyterian services. And as we had discovered the day before, a visit to one of these Sabbath sanctuaries is well worth the visit.
Initially, the set-up appeared pretty much apropos. Kids could be heard as they fidgeted and squirmed, the occasional baby cried out before being consoled, and attendees shuffled in vain attempts to find comfort on the unforgiving wooden pews. From a pedestal platform the Reverend delivered the sermon and, although I couldn’t decipher a word of the Maori message, I perked right up when he instructed, “We’ll now sing a traditional hymn.”
There wasn’t a song book in sight, but it was obvious the regulars knew every word by heart. One male voice took the lead, then a few more joined in, and before long the congregation was bringing down the roof in acapella harmony. From soft-pitched lilts to full-forced crescendo, the volume rose and fell in synchronicity, like the ebb and flow of the nearby tide. Bodies swayed, hands clapped and the surge of sound mellifluously flowed over the crowd like finely tuned instruments. After the hour of gregarious gospel, I walked away feeling spiritually connected and totally inspired. It was definitely no traditional hymn sing by my books.
Soulful togetherness seems to ooze way beyond the hallowed halls of the whitewashed limestone chapels. Rarotonga time is like being in slow-mo and, instead of a hectic pace, people have time for one another. There’s no rush hour, street lights, fast-food chains or big-box stores. They claim, in fact, that there’s no building taller than a coconut tree. And there are certainly plenty of palms to be the judge. As well as lining sugar-fine shores, the billowing fronds canopy the 32 kilometres of grey asphalt that ring this South Pacific gem and throw shade over the interior hills cloaked with vibrant flora. An ancient secondary road bisecting the lush tropical interior is flanked by humble cyclone-proof cinderblock homes where wide-eyed children play, and indigenous crops flourish with abundance.
“Taro, arrowroot and coconut have always been primary staples,” we’re informed by James, our outgoing guide, who staffs one of the final stations of our cultural tour. Like followers of the Pied Piper, we’ve traipsed the trails laced with gardenia and hibiscus to a number of thatched roof outposts, and united with Kiwis, Aussies and other Canadians, to learn how to create everything from grass skirts (papas) made from Mulberry bark, to primitive bowls using spiky pandan leaves. Now, as well as furnishings and fashions, we discover there’s even enough goodness in the harvested hills to sustain year-round living. With one swift machete swing, James slices a hairy fruit husk in half and after sampling the sweet coconut nectar, he produces a gleaming smile that is whiter than the treasured fruit within.
The tasty treat later finds its way to our crafty bowls where it complements marinated chicken, breadfruit, and other home-grown favourites. And while chowing down on the finger-licking grub, we’re entertained by “hip-notic” dancers who gyrate erotically to the beat of rhythmic slit drums. It’s a grand finale to the three-hour tour, a scrumptious pairing with cultural enrichment, and a feast fit for any God or Goddess, even if they aren’t related to Tangaroa!
How to get there:
Air New Zealand
www.airnewzealand.com
Cook Islands Tourism Corporation
www.cook-islands.com
Where to Stay
Muri Beach Club Hotel
www.muribeachclubhotel.com