Author: Kate Robertson
“One of the things I love about this job is how much personality each whale has,” says our Vancouver Island Whale Watch tour guide, Vanessa. Just kilometres from our Nanaimo departure into the Georgia Strait, we’ve seen eight orcas, a colony of harbour seals (orcas’ main diet) and Steller sea lions—in less than four hours.
Vanessa and Rodrigo, the boat captain, have a knack for finding whale pods, based on experience. Companies also share their intel on the most recent sightings. What amazes me most is that both Vanessa and Rodrigo can identify an orca just from the shape of its dorsal fin, or even its saddle or eye patch shapes.
Tubs Marsh Park, a 136-acre bird and
wildlife sanctuary in Nanaimo BC. Photo: Kate Robertson
One of the pod groups we see today is the T49As, one of the most frequent Bigg’s orca families in the Salish Sea (this vast inland sea made up of the Georgia Strait, Puget Sound and the Juan de Fuca Strait). Nan, the matriarch, is 39 years old and has birthed six offspring.
Wildlife viewing opportunities on central Vancouver Island are plentiful, and that’s the focus of my long weekend trip. Nanaimo itself has more than 180 kilometres of trails and so many parks to visit that you won’t be able to fit them all into one weekend.
I recommend a visit to the rocky trails and beaches of Pipers Lagoon Park, an isthmus that extends out to a rocky headland. From here, you can see the northern tip of nearby Galiano Island and watch BC Ferries entering Nanaimo while you beachcomb and birdwatch. Shorebirds and waterfowl are abundant, and the park is home to the graceful great blue heron.
Just a five-minute drive north is the much larger (36-acre) Neck Point Park, with its winding oak grove trails (watch for wild rabbits!), beach trails and rugged rock cliffs. It’s not uncommon to see orcas, sea lions or otters from the north headland. I wasn’t that lucky, but I did sit and watch the graceful undulation of porpoises feeding close to shore at sunset.
At Buttertubs Marsh, a 136-acre bird and wildlife sanctuary in the centre of town, I walked the two-kilometre loop around the marsh. It’s spring, and the trail is a cacophony of birdsongs and whistles. I easily spotted red-winged blackbirds, towhees, robins, chickadees and a great blue heron feeding just metres from the trail.
I am amazed at how much Nanaimo has changed over the past few years. As prices have soared in Victoria, more and more people are opting to move to this blossoming city of 110,000. New businesses are popping up, and culture is thriving.
Vibrant downtown Nanaimo is fun to explore. It’s divided into three handy neighbourhoods: the Old City Quarter, a charming historic district with revitalized heritage buildings that now house spas, studios, galleries, cafes and vintage shops; the Arts District and Commercial Street, the primary business hub and home to the Nanaimo Art Gallery; and the Waterfront District, situated along the lively Harbourfront Walkway, with scenic views of the marina and across the channel to Gabriola Island and the mainland in the distance.
Of course, a necessary ingredient for a great road trip is great food, and I wasn’t disappointed. First stop was Horang, which serves modern Korean-inspired dishes in a lively setting (think mandu dumplings and kimbap with a twist). I was glad I had a reservation because there was a lineup out the door.
The next evening, I ate authentic Italian cuisine at La Stella Trattoria, a small, cozy restaurant located in the Old City Quarter. Wood-fired pizza and handmade pasta are specialties, and be sure to try the flame-roasted meatballs, served with a delicious tomato sauce and sprinkled with fresh Parmesan cheese.
From Nanaimo, I head 37 kilometres north to the small city of Parksville, known for its large sandy beaches and mild climate, to explore the Central Vancouver Island Bird Trail. The BC Bird Trail website is a handy resource and contains detailed information for birdwatchers to find the best birding hotspots in British Columbia. The website is kept up to date with field notes and seasonal bird lists.
In the Parksville region, a few places for bird and wildlife viewing are the French Creek Estuary and the Englishman River Estuary, both just minutes from downtown. The much larger Englishman River Estuary is a critical staging ground for the Pacific brant and more than 250 species of birds can be seen here. It incorporates 312 hectares of protected estuary and adjacent forest, with excellent views of the river, salt marshes and the ocean. There are several flat walking loops around the park, with viewing areas and interpretive signage.
Hamilton Marsh, just minutes from the town of Qualicum Beach, is located within 360 hectares of forest. (Tip: when I put the address for the marsh in my GPS, I was taken on a wild goose chase. To get to the main trailhead, head west on Memorial Avenue [Highway 4] and turn north onto Hilliers Road South, then watch for the second trailhead sign on the left—it’s easy to miss.)
Wetlands are areas of high biological diversity and support a large number of animal and plant species. They are extremely productive breeding and feeding areas for wildlife. Along with the 130 species of birds that can be found at Hamilton Marsh, there are several species of frogs, grey wolves and black bears. It’s also a particularly rich environment for an impressive 30 species of dragonflies.
As the largest waterbird brood marsh on this part of the island, it is home to many endangered bird species, including the northern pygmy owl. Research shows that habitat loss is the number one challenge facing bird populations. Until recently, Hamilton Marsh was at risk of encroachment by developers, but fortunately, I was happy to hear that an agreement has now been signed to preserve the area. Dinner on my final night at Nanoose Bay Cafe is a full-on local experience. The warm spring evening light shines through floor-to-ceiling windows as I savour the flavours of fresh, local Ocean Wise seafood—just-shucked oysters, albacore tuna tataki and wild-caught salmon. I wish I had longer to explore this central Island paradise.
3 views