Mysteries of the Mighty Mekong

I ate a tarantula — a rather large spider.

The crispy-fried arachnid was surprisingly tasty, rather like a delicate piece of pork. The crickets, on the other hand, were somewhat dry. These local delicacies were offered one day at lunch for any brave and inquisitive guest to try, and I decided that when in Cambodia — well, why not?

Though a journey through Cambodia and Vietnam might take you out of your comfort zone on a number of fronts, fear not — you will eat well. The Asian cuisine, whether aboard Uniworld’s elegant Mekong Jewel or in any Cambodian or Vietnamese restaurant you visit, is delicious beyond compare. You will also learn that the locals, especially in the rural villages, are extraordinarily resourceful — they will eat almost anything.

The Mekong River is one of the world’s great waterways, a magical route that winds its way from its source on the Tibetan Plateau through China, Laos, Myanmar, Thailand and Cambodia before draining into Vietnam’s Mekong Delta.

The mighty river is an essential lifeline for those who live along its banks, bringing both sustenance and trade to millions. Travelling this majestic waterway is perhaps the best way to experience this fascinating part of the world.

My week-long cruise with Uniworld took me through two of Asia’s most beautiful, historic, and welcoming countries — pastoral Cambodia and dynamic Vietnam. Each has its own unique charm and cultural traditions, as well as a rich and sometimes complex history.

My journey down the Mekong offered a window into both, from awe-inspiring ancient temples and intricate palaces to the haunting remnants of soldiers’ tunnels and the solemnity of the killing fields.

From gentle, quiet fishing villages to the frenetic, chaotic pace of the cities, the contrast between historic splendour and recent horrors, and between rural tranquillity and urban bustle, is profound — each aspect offering a deeper understanding of the resilience and spirit of the people who live along the river.

The river voyage is bookended by city stays in Siem Reap, for the magnificent temples of Angkor, and in Ho Chi Minh City, where visitors can delve into the history of the Vietnam War.

Colourful Siem Reap is the gateway to the vast UNESCO-designated temple complex of Angkor Wat. Not just a temple, nor even a collection of them, the 12th-century Angkor Wat is a ruined city containing a royal palace, monasteries, and residences, surrounded by a moat and perimeter wall.

Many structures have been pitted by weather or reclaimed by jungle vines over the centuries. At its peak, Angkor covered 260 square kilometres.

We departed Siem Reap for Kampong, on the west bank of the Mekong, and boarded the Mekong Jewel.

While I found the warm, heavy air challenging when touring the ruins, once we were on the river the breeze felt much more tolerable.

We often disembarked for morning tours when the temperatures were pleasant — and to avoid the afternoon rains.

At Wat Hanchey, we climbed a long stone staircase from the river to take part in a water blessing at a Buddhist temple

Our next stop was Angkor Ban, a village left untouched during Cambodia’s 1975–1979 civil war and a beautiful example of a traditional Cambodian town. We docked at the pier and wandered past temples blaring incantations over loudspeakers, and among wooden houses with bamboo floors built high on stilts to avoid river floods.

A highlight of the day came at a children’s school, where we were paired with eager students wanting to practise their English. It was a rewarding experience — made even better if you bring along some distinctly Canadian school supplies from home.

The next day we were in the Cambodian capital, Phnom Penh. Architectural highlights included the Royal Palace, Silver Pagoda, and the National Museum, with its impressive collection of Angkor treasures.

A tuk-tuk tour of Phnom Penh contrasted these splendid structures with the sombre reminders of the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (S-21) and the killing fields. During the late 1970s, Cambodia was in the grip of the Khmer Rouge, ruled by the reclusive tyrant Pol Pot.

Once we crossed the border into Vietnam, the rhythm and pulse of the river changed. Here, rather than docking at wharves, our ship anchored mid-river, and we boarded traditional sampans to explore the narrow canals and waterways of rural villages.

The true magic of the Mekong lies in the people who live along its shores and on its islands. They are friendly and eager to share their stories.

Reminders of the Vietnam War are everywhere, and the locals often reminisce about those difficult years — while speaking proudly of the present and with abundant hope for the future.

We were invited into a humble and wondrous world — visiting a family of weavers and traditional hat makers, and stopping at the home of a sampan boat builder. We learned how to make rice paper and rice wine.

Returning to the ship, I loved sitting on the top deck in the refreshing breeze, cruising the river and watching life unfold in the floating villages.

Ho Chi Minh City offered a heady mixture of old and new, often surprising visitors with its charm. This year, on April 30, Vietnam marked the 50th anniversary of the fall of Saigon and the reunification of North and South, ending the Vietnam War.

We visited Independence Palace (now a museum), where a North Vietnamese tank crashed through the gates in 1975, ending the conflict.

We also toured the Cu Chi tunnels, a 268-kilometre network that once connected Viet Cong support bases on the outskirts of Saigon all the way to the Cambodian border. It was hard to imagine living underground — especially after I crawled through a narrow 20-metre tunnel that was dark, hot, and disorienting.

Fifty years after the end of the Vietnam War and forty-five years after the fall of the Khmer Rouge, Vietnam and Cambodia have rebounded into two of the world’s most vibrant destinations. Their traditions, colourful cultures, diverse histories, and endlessly changing scenery are best experienced on an exotic journey down the magical Mekong.

Sailing the Mekong

With its elaborate woodwork and elegant fittings, the 68-passenger Mekong Jewel resembles a floating boutique hotel with a distinctly French colonial flair.

It is perhaps the most spacious river ship I’ve experienced (there are no river locks to navigate on this route). The nostalgic atmosphere on board does not disappoint — nor does the cuisine, a mixture of local dishes and international fare.

Evening entertainment includes traditional Vietnamese music, a Cambodian dance show, a cooking demonstration, and illuminating lectures by the local guides. For more information: www.univorld.com

Wet or Dry Season

From June to September, Southeast Asia flourishes during its lush Green Season. My journey took place in mid-September, when the landscapes of Vietnam and Cambodia were at their most vibrant.

This tropical wet season brings short, refreshing afternoon showers that breathe life into the region. Rice paddies shimmer in vivid green, jungles flourish, and riverbanks bloom with wildflowers.

It’s also less busy — we had only 36 guests aboard the ship.

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