I confess. I’m a spa-fanatic. Wrinkle-reducing facials, rejuvenating massages, refurbishing body wraps - these Zen dens lure me in. And even though my husband, Brent, totally supports my pampering habit, it’s the last item on his holiday to-do list. But during this recent trip to Hawaii Island, where ancient Polynesian beliefs of huna (harmony) and mana (spirit) are embraced, he eventually does an about-face (and body) and becomes a lover of the “lomilomi.”

I confess. I’m a spa-fanatic. Wrinkle-reducing facials, rejuvenating massages, refurbishing body wraps - these Zen dens lure me in. And even though my husband, Brent, totally supports my pampering habit, it’s the last item on his holiday to-do list. But during this recent trip to Hawaii Island, where ancient Polynesian beliefs of huna (harmony) and mana (spirit) are embraced, he eventually does an about-face (and body) and becomes a lover of the “lomilomi.”

LEG ONE
While a number of chi-chi resorts pepper the island’s sun-drenched Kohala coast, one of the best is The Fairmont Orchid, Hawaii, a 32-acre refuge that promises relaxation, recreation and, yes, renewal.  

“Let’s book some side-by-side sublime time,” I suggest, when checking-in. “There are lots of dual options at their Spa Without Walls.” 
Pathways, flanked by flora and waterfalls, trail just beyond the open-air lobby and lead to vacation pastimes: grotto pools, verdant fairways, delectable dining; dotting the way are massage huts and oceanfront cabanas that call out my name. 
Though my spa-skeptic mate has other plans, he redeems himself by upgrading our reservation. I accept his cop-out. I know what’s in store. Billed as “a hotel within a hotel,” the devoted floor is more like a sanctuary - posh rooms, private lounge, delectable spreads - accompanied by unrivalled service.

Angel, the concierge, lives up to her name and produces a line up of heavenly adventures. Although the Orchid Beach Boys aren’t related to the California crooners, they sure know how to stir up the action. Their little grass shack, brimming over with floatables, hugs up to the sandy shore of the resort’s protected lagoon and, over the next three days, we try everything from kayaking the ocean crests to snorkelling beneath them. 

“Are you still declining on the paired paradise?” I jest, knowing that, on this final Fairmont day, Brent will come up with alternatives. He ties his sneakers and gives me a wink. “While you’re revelling in present-day pleasures, I’m escaping to the past.” 

I’d heard this area was chock-full of archeological sites. As well as being the birthplace of King Kamehameha I, who united the Hawaiian Islands, there are nearby ancient burial sites, sacred temples and world-renown petroglyphs. 

After Brent heads out on his well-worn treasure trail, I discover a different gem. Her name is Charlene, a copper-toned beauty who knows how to revive. With fingers stronger than farmer Joe’s and forearms swifter than the rolling surf, she slathers and lathers, unravels every pent-up muscle and aligns my crooked spine. And while the nearby waterfall plays nature’s lullaby, I drift into a semi-comatose state of euphoria. It’s a grand finale to this stay and a definite favourite on my vacation bucket list.  

LEG TWO 
For our next retreat, we head to the other side of the island - away from the sunny leeward coast, to the dewy windward shores. Why? As well as its sheer beauty, explosive vegetation and historical landmarks, there are 33,000 intriguing acres to explore at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park.

Although the city of Hilo has a few haute hotels, we prefer to get closer to the crux of this lava-loving attraction. Kipuka Cottage offers the best of both worlds - a secluded jungle oasis that’s just minutes from the rumblings. 

“How do you feel about going spa-less?” Brent jests, as we pull into the wooded driveway. I remain coy and quiet. This stay is going to be all about us. There’s no distracting TV, not a soul in sight, and aside from the deep soaker tub, it’s certainly sans spa. But there couldn’t be a better spot to coerce him into the world of massage. And after recently emailing Dane Silva, I’ve even picked up a few tips. This Hawaiian modalities guru knows lomilomi, the ancient art of massage, like the back of his hand and was willing to share. 

“Surround yourself with nature,” he encourages. “Plants help relax and restore.” We couldn’t get much closer to Mother Earth than here at Kipuka. Her gifts are shared from every windowed wall, even from our stargazing loft.  “Spiritual belief comes from within,” he continues. “When an empowered person touches someone else with the touch of lomilomi, that spiritual energy is passed along. It restores lokahi, which is the foundation of health.” 

Although it’s been a while since I’ve pampered my man, I’m now feeling pretty motivated to pass on a little huna and mana. And over the next two days, between checking out the park’s Crater Rim Drive, Thurston lava tube, and Halema’uma’u Crater’s nighttime glow, that’s exactly what I do. By the time we leave, I’m sure Brent is re-prioritizing his list.  

LEG THREE
We know we’re in for a treat when we step into the rotunda at The Sheraton Keauhou Bay Resort & Spa. Ocean-viewing guest rooms fan out from this impressive lobby like wings of their visiting manta rays. And just like these sea creatures, this resort puts on a graceful show. Asphalt pathways, bordered by tropical flowers, weave over the lava-scape that, at one time, was a playground for Hawaiian royalty. Like strands of Goddess Pele’s hair, the jet-black groundcover is a stunning contrast to vibrant orchids, hibiscus and bougainvillea. 

Although there’s no sunbathing beachfront, the resort makes up for it. A courtyard pool, which is fed by cascading waterfalls, flows into an aquatic wonderland where kids of all ages play. While young tykes gravitate to the man-made sandy shore, others splash from the 200-foot (61 m) lava waterslide. Tennis, basketball and golf are a short stroll away, as are eateries for every taste bud. We re-energize at the poolside Sliders, watch nature’s nightly show at the Manta Ray Bar and Grill, and dine on Chef Eric Lelinski’s award-winning entrees at the ocean-viewing Kai Restaurant. 

And when it’s time for the full-meal pampering deal, the Sheraton doesn’t disappoint. Hugging up to this heavenly haven is the oceanfront Ho’ola Spa. Travertine floors trail to treatment rooms and a Pacific-viewing venue that transcends the basic manicure and pedicure. But the ultimate treat waits just beyond these blissful confines. Cantilevering the lava shoreline and open to the balmy sea breeze are three alluring lanais. 

“How about some partnership pleasure?” says Brent, with a chuckle, after discovering these findings. I can’t believe he’s going to concede. My suave massage technique must have been pretty convincing. 

Like a pair of well-versed musicians, the therapists work in synchronicity, side by side, personalizing the lomilomi massage to meet our individual needs. And over the next hour as the waves roll in and birds chirp along, we succumb to Utopian joys, and a little more of Hawaii Island’s huna and mana.

The Fairmont Orchid, Hawaii
One North Kaniku Drive               
Kohala Coast, HI 96743
U.S. & Canada Toll-Free Reservations
Tel: 1-800-257-7544
Email: reservations@fairmont.com
www.fairmont.com/orchid 

Kipuka Cottage
11-3798 Nahelenani
Volcano, HI 96785
kipuka-cottage@hawaiiantel.net  
www.kipuka-cottage.squarespace.com 

Sheraton Keauhou Bay Resort & Spa 
78-128 Ehukai Street
Kona, HI  96740
Phone:  808-930-4900
www.sheratonkona.com 
For more information: www.gohawaii.com/big-island

OCTOBER 2011 SENIOR LIVING MAGAZINE VANCOUVER ISLAND