Most people are aware of the renowned scenic Cabot Trail, even though they may never have travelled this almost 300-km loop in Cape Breton. Directly south is the Bra d’Or Lakes system, Canada’s largest inland sea. We decided to explore this watery avenue en route to Baddeck, the village where Alexander Graham Bell hosted historic happenings.
Boarding the Cape Bretoner, a 42-foot catamaran, we departed Ben Eoin marina to sail southwest to Dundee. The first leg of our cruise was 50 nautical miles on the Bra d’Or Lakes, which constitutes a vast 1,250km of coastline. Plying the placid, fog free, inland salt water sea, we arrived at Dundee Resort, where we tendered offshore and were shuttled to land by a dingy. We settled in with a sumptuous seafood dinner and were treated to a radiant sunset overlooking West Bay.
The following morning, we set sail for Iona, past picturesque points, coves and bays. CAT owner, Paul Jamieson says, “I feel the Bras d’Or Lake is as iconic as anything in Cape Breton. Seeing it from the water is another extraordinary angle I think people need to see.”
After 30 nautical miles, we arrived at Barra Strait and the Iona Point, where we disembarked for a cultural and historical walking tour. The Highland Village overlooks the UNESCO Bras d’Or Lake Biosphere Reserve. This Gaelic folk life experience encompasses four eras of Gaelic life on this 17-hectare site. Scottish Gaelic (1770s–1830s) and Nova Scotian Gaelic (1880s–1920s) reflect their lifestyle from pastoral to agrarian.
We visited a self-contained sod-and-stone structure known as the black house (taigh dubh in Gaelic). One may explore the other 10 period buildings including a school, church and carding mill. I stopped to admire a pregnant Clydesdale outside the barn (sabbal) with a young girl as a costumed animator. Before finishing our tour, we dropped by a gathering (célidh) where a costumed performer played toe-tapping music by a roaring fireplace.
A stroll back to the CAT and we were on our way northbound to the Village of Baddeck, just over 16km away. It is situated on the Cabot Trail and, upon arrival, we transferred to a schooner for a bay tour. Boarding the vessel, I had to do a double-take when I saw our captain reading the book: Sailing for Dummies. Our good-humoured Captain John Bryson greeted us as we boarded the Amoeba. Shortly after our departure, he identified an eagle’s nest perched aloft along the shoreline. Tossing a chunk of frozen halibut overboard, within moments an eagle swiftly swooped up the offering with its tenacious talons.
“We know where the eagles are, and they are very aware of us; so, we have a good relationship,” said Captain Bryson.
Sailing further along, we viewed a hillside structure flanked by towering trees overlooking the bay. This 36-hectare estate was owned by Alexander Graham Bell and his wife. He named it Beinn Breagh (“Beautiful Mountain”) since it was reminiscent of the Scottish Highlands Bell enjoyed as a youth. It is in this vicinity where Bell and his associates (Aerial Experiment Association) made history with Canada’s first flight on the frozen lake in 1909. He was also instrumental in setting a world marine speed record one decade later (in 1919) with the HD-4 hydrofoil (at 114 km).
Returning to shore, we disembarked and headed just northeast of the village for a more hands-on aquatic activity as we slithered into a kayak at the North River Kayak facility. Hugging the shoreline, I could get the sense of what the indigenous Mi’ Kmaq felt skimming along in their sturdy bark canoes admiring the endemic flora and fauna. Following our watercraft trifecta, we ambled along the main street of Baddeck in search of the Bell influences and connections to this beguiling village.
The Village of Baddeck was popularized as a tourist destination with the 1874 publication of the travel guidebook, Baddeck and That Sort of Thing. It was influential in enticing Bell to move to the area in 1885 and stay in the Telegraph House Motel, where Room #1 remains dedicated to the Bells. They rented a house and subsequently had Beinn Breagh Hall constructed.
For our next visit, we headed to the Alexander Graham Bell Museum, a National Historic Site established in 1956. The expansive and impressive complex has innumerable inventions and a vast array of artifacts to peruse. One may even receive the white-glove tour, where you are entitled to explore behind-the-scenes. Behind closed doors, you can view an original wax audio recording, an authentic tetrahedral prototype and even his favourite sports jacket.
A replica of the famous Silver Dart aircraft hangs from the ceiling. All that remains from the original bi-plane is the radiator, gas tank and steering wheel on display. Bell also developed the ideal geometric shape for flying with a tetrahedron. Kites and kids can be seen on the grounds flying their colourful creations. This is encouraged via the kite-making program on the premises. We are all aware of Bell’s connection to the telephone and other lesser-known entities. Once you explore the extensive exhibits, however, you become ensconced in the world of a multi-faceted genius who was a pioneer, inventor, scientist, teacher and humanitarian.
His contemporary, Thomas Edison, created the phonograph, which did not work that effectively. Consequently, Bell implemented three changes to the existing unit to make it work more efficiently.
“He renamed it the Graphophone and sold it back to Edison for $200,000 – millions by today’s standards,” Valerie Mason, Visitor Experience Manager extraordinaire informed us.
Just west of Baddeck is Cape Breton’s first craft brewery, Big Spruce (opened in 2013) with 11 types of certified organic hops grown locally. Another Bell connection exists here, as well; Bell used to consume a concoction he called Raspberry Vinegar. He created it by simmering raspberries, vinegar and sugar until it was reduced to a syrup, then he added cold water, creating a refreshing beverage.
In 2015, the Bell family suggested that the brewery should develop a beer reflecting this. They fermented a 3.7 per cent sour raspberry wheat beer they named, Silver Tart (after the Silver Dart). Their best seller is a brew called Kitchen Party, named after the traditional célidh, a social gathering that invariably spills into the kitchen.
The Big Spruce owner/brewmaster presented us with a “flight” of beer samples to consume as he described the differences between the six distinct brews. The glasses are inserted into a small spruce-shaped, green wooden tray and delivered to patrons for consumption. Following our savoury sudsy session, we arrived at our accommodations, appropriately the Silver Dart Lodge. We dined at the suitably named restaurant, McCurdys, the pilot and local boy of the historic flight.
Our Cape Breton cruise and Bell connections were further reinforced during our departure at Sydney’s J.A. McCurdy airport. In addition, nearby street signs indicated Silver Dart Way and Alexander Graham Bell Drive. The region has paid homage to Bell and his innumerable influences in beloved Cape Breton Island, his final resting place, where his monumental legacy lives on.
IF YOU GO
PRACTICAL INFORMATION:
* Nova Scotia Tourism: www.novascotiatourismagency.com
* Destination Cape Breton: www.cbisland.com
* Catamaran Cruises: www.sailingcbi.com
* Amoeba Schooner Tours: www.amoebasailingtours.com
* Alexander Graham Bell Museum: https://www.pc.gc.ca/en/lhn-nhs/ns/grahambell
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- Catamaran tendered offshore from Dundee Resort
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- Captain John on the Amoeba deck in Baddeck Harbour
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- Bells’ statue at Baddeck waterfront
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- Baddeck Lighthouse
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- Baddeck Bay
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- Girl flies kite on Bell’s Museum grounds
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