I’m snuggled in a comfy chair in a (stranger’s) living room, listening to some of the best toe-tapping fiddle music I’ve ever heard. This kind of impromptu party, called a ceilidh in Gaelic, happens often here, I’m told. The fiddle player, Colin Grant, and accompanying piano player, Jason Roach (it’s his parent’s house – he just happens to be visiting), are local celebs. It’s at this point that I get that I-want-to-live-in Cape Breton sensation – the feeling of community here is beguiling.
Ask most people what they know about this little island in Nova Scotia, and they’ll probably mention the “Cabot Trail” and “lobster.” Yes, there’re those, but there’s much more, so when you drive the 300-kilometre trail, give yourself several days. Watch for moose along the way, as you’ll likely get a glimpse of these majestic animals and, if your timing is right, you may see minke or pilot whales in the Atlantic. Here are some stops along the Trail I recommend for Island adventure.
Gaelic College
Plan a half day at the Gaelic College (Colaisde na Gàidhlig), where you will learn about the traditions of immigrants from Scotland, like fiddle playing, bagpipes, step dancing and kilt-making. Did you know a kilt can cost up to $725, depending on its weight, and can contain up to 11 metres of fabric? No wonder Gaelic warriors would drop their kilts and run into battle naked, so they wouldn’t get blood on them.
Participate in a milling frolic demonstration, which is what women did to pre-shrink the wool before making a kilt, while singing brain-teasing Gaelic words to a song. Don’t worry, in the demo they don’t pour the traditional solution of stale urine over the fabric, which was used to set the dye and take the oil out of the wool.
Gampo Abbey
Visit the remote heavenly grounds with a breathtaking view of the Atlantic at Gampo Abbey, a Western Buddhist monastery founded by Chögyam Trungpa Rinpoche in 1983, and whose principal teacher is the world-famous Pema Chödrön. Each summer, the Abbey offers tours where you can learn more about their lineage, retreats, and life of the monastics who live there. Be sure to walk through the gardens to the Stupa of Enlightenment, the first stupa (a Buddhist shrine dedicated to world peace) built in Nova Scotia.
Centre de la Mi-Careme
Make a mask at the Centre de la Mi-Careme (which means mid-Lent) and learn about the history of this celebration to break the austerity of Lent, which has taken place since the Middle Ages. The tradition crossed the Atlantic with French settlers and still takes place every year in the Acadian community of Chéticamp, where people disguise themselves from head to toe (originally they wore costumes to avoid trouble with the priest) and then drop in to parties with neighbours, who try to guess their identity.
While in Chéticamp, for another dose of local culture, go to Sunset Art Gallery to browse the colourful, whimsical folk art of William Roach, who has been woodcarving since he was a child.
Hike on the Cabot Trail
Pack your hiking boots and stop at some of the many trails in the Cape Breton Highlands National Park. Parks Canada offers some fantastic programs including guided day and night hikes, lobster boils, and camping equipment and rentals.
I joined Parks Canada guide Amy to hike the Franey Trail. Parks’ staff has placed big red Adirondack chairs in awe-inspiring spots on the trails, and these are fun to look for. We find one at a viewpoint overlooking Clyburn Valley, which Amy declares is her favourite view in the whole park.
But my favourite is the iconic Sky Line Trail, where I meet with Parks’ guides Nadine and Scott. En route, I plant some balsam fir seedlings, a park initiative to reforest the area, which is being over-grazed by moose. As we continue down the trail through evergreen and yellow birch groves to the iconic boardwalk and platforms, which protect the fragile headland plants, the view of the rugged coastline, the surrounding green lushness, and the mighty Gulf of St. Lawrence are stunning. Scott says people do ceremonial things here like marriage proposals, photo shoots, and bagpipe concerts, and I can understand the allure of wanting this majestic site to bear witness.
Get in the Water
Bring your quick-dry clothes and stop at North River Kayak Tours for a paddle in the briny water towards St. Ann’s Bay, or out into the open Atlantic to explore the Island’s coast from another perspective. Keep your eyes open for bald eagles or, if you’re lucky, sea lions.
Learn the art of fly fishing on the Margaree River, renowned as an angler’s paradise for the size and abundance of its trout and Atlantic salmon. I climbed into my waders, and expert guide, Ed McCarty, who has been guiding keen wannabe fly fishers like me for years, gives step-by-step instructions. I struggle to get the necessary rhythm of the basic overhead cast, but Ed patiently untangles my line each time and jokes, “You never want to admit you tangled your line – you want to say that the wind must have caught it.”
Cape Breton Music
The reverence that is paid to fiddle music by Capers, as they like to call themselves, is proven by the world’s largest fiddle (18-metres high) placed in front of the Sydney Conference Centre. According to local Adam Young, enthusiastic piano player, “Saying that everyone in Cape Breton plays the fiddle isn’t entirely true.” But Young emphasizes that music and ceilidhs are a big part of Island life and happen on a regular basis. “You might be lucky and have Natalie MacMaster or Ashley MacIsaac drop by, or one of the more regular ‘famous’ folks (like Colin Grant and Jason Roach). But nothing is really regular,” Young continues, “nothing is really planned – no stress, no hassle – just friends having fun.”
I nestle back in my chair, tap my toes, and relish my first Cape Breton ceilidh.
For more information go to: www.cbisland.com
Where to Stay:
Castle Rock Country Inn: www.castlerockinn.com
Island Sunset Resort: www.islandsunset.com
Silver Dart Lodge: www.silverdart.com
Keltic Lodge: www.kelticlodge.ca
Maison Fiset House: www.maisonfisethouse.com
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- The author Fly Fishing in the Margaree River with Guide, Ed McCarty.
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- The author in the kayak at North River Kayak Tours.
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- Kayaking the North River.
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